AKA The Lace Trench
Pattern Description: From McCalls’ website, “MISSES’ AND WOMEN’S LINED JACKETS, COATS AND BELT: Semi-fitted, lined, double-breasted jacket and coat have collar, length and sleeve variations, shoulder pads, princess seams and side front pockets; coats B, D and E have back vent; jackets A, C, coats B, D, E have belt carriers; jacket C, coat E have epaulets with button closure; coat E has pocket flaps with button trim; jacket C, coat E have collar tab; jacket C has front yoke; jacket C, coat E have back buttoned yoke; coats B, E, jacket C have sleeves with button bands; jackets A, C, coats B, D, E have topstitch trim, button closure; jackets A, C and coats D, E have self-tie belt.”
I made View A.
Sizing: 8 to 24W. I made a 14.
Fabric Used: French Cotton Lace that I have had in my stash for several years, underlined with Champagne Silk Charmeuse from Gorgeous Fabrics (since sold out, sorry). For lining, I used Silk Twill (also sold out, sorry – I never get to work on fabrics while they are still in stock).
Needle/Notions Used: Universal 70/10 needle, silk organza for interfacing, really cool tortoise snaps that I got at Pacific Trim in New York for the closures.
Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes
How were the instructions? Didn’t use them, since I made this very differently from the way McCalls does (see below).
Construction Notes: I eliminated the facings and lined the coat all the way to the edges with the silk twill. Since I was just a tad short on the twill, I used a tip I got from My BFAM Emmett and lined the sleeves with the charmeuse that I used for the underlining:
I raised the armholes 1/2″ and I took almost all the ease out of the set-in sleeve to give a smoother look to the sleeve cap.
I did not use any shoulder pads. I opted against putting buttonholes and buttons in this coat. Instead, I used snaps:
I think it gives a cleaner look on the outside. I also decided not to make a belt. I’m going to buy one, something very cool – maybe patent leather, to pair with it.
Likes/Dislikes: This is a great pattern that works for tons of fabrications. Let your imagination soar with it and you’ll be happily surprised by what you can come up with!
Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? I would do it again, in a more standard trench style. I would definitely recommend it.
Conclusion: A great pattern that gives great results. I’m going to wear this to the Winchester Hospital Foundation Gala next month. Now I need to figure out what I will wear for a dress. Here are pictures of the front and back on Shelley. It is very difficult to photograph, because the charmeuse underlining reflects the flash pretty harshly. It looks much better in person, but this gives you some idea.
And because I think a belt makes all the difference, here you can see it cinched with one of my every-day belts:
I think, before I start in on whatever dress I’m going to wear to the gala. I’m going to make myself a knit dress as an amuse-bouche. Cleanse the old palate with something simple, you know? Stay tuned for more on that.