Miss me? I’ve missed you!
Seriously – I have. I’ve been trying to keep up with: work, life, kids, home, marriage, Christmas shopping, and everything else. So guess what hasn’t been getting much attention? My Paco chaqueta. But I have managed to sneak some quality time in with it over the last week, in 15-minute increments. I needed to do some adjusting to the muslin. It fit well in front, but the back had some issues. I don’t have pictures of the original muslin right now. But there were two folds that started beneath the shoulder blades and formed an inverted triangle at the center back. I’ll get DH to take a picture of the first muslin at some point so you can see what I mean.
After thinking about the cause, I determined that it’s a slight swayback adjustment. I don’t have the classic swayback/booty, but I do have a bit of an arched back. It shows up in princess line garments that I make, and I think that’s what was showing here. One way to fix it is to add back darts, but that would defeat the beauty of this design. Instead, I adjusted the pattern to remove the excess fabric. To do so I slashed the pattern and overlapped a half inch on either side of the center back at the upper back seamline:
I slashed the lower back piece and overlapped the top seam to match, spreading out at the bottom so it fits over my hips.
This creates the same effect as a dart without interfering with the line of the seam.
I also lowered the bust point in front. It makes the seamline fall in a more flattering place for me. I trued-up the CF and the grainlines before cutting.
Much better! Here’s the muslin on Shelley:
Now I can cut into the fabric. Yay!