Technically, it’s not entirely done – I want to add one more trim, but I’ll update when I do that.
Pattern Description: This is a variation of Vogue’s 7975. From Vogue’s description, “MISSES’/MISSES’ PETITE JACKET: Lined jacket in two lengths with high round neckline. A, B: short length, has long sleeves and patch pockets. A: purchased ribbon ties and trim. B: purchased trim on outer edges. C: three-quarter length sleeves, mock welt pockets, purchased trim along outer edges of jacket. D: button front, three-quarter length sleeves and mock welt pockets. E: button front, full length sleeves, patch pockets, outer edges trimmed with purchased fold-over braid. D, E: longer length.” I made View B, more or less.
Sizing: 6-22. I made a size 12, more or less.
Fabric Used: Linton Tweed for the outer shell, silk crepe de chine for the lining
Big shout out to my friend Rosie. I was short on the trim (doh!), so I called her up and she went to M&J Trim on her lunch hour, bought it for me and overnighted it so I could finish my jacket in time. Rosie, you are an angel. Drinks are on me next time I’m in New York. Mmmmmwah!
Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? I think it looks better, but that’s just me!
How were the instructions? I didn’t use them. I’ve made this jacket several times now. It’s a very well drafted pattern that goes together easily. I made this version using Susan Khalje’s techniques for constructing a Chanel-style jacket, so the construction and fit was vastly different from the original.
Construction Notes: There are lots and lots of construction notes on this jacket. You can see them in the posts in the category, “Chanel Jacket“.
Any changes? Again, I’ve documented them all along, but to sum up, probably the most important ones were: working with Susan on the fit of the muslin to make it closer to the body, especially through the upper chest and shoulders; re-drafting the sleeve to be a three-piece sleeve with a canted vent; cutting the undersleeve on the bias, again to achieve the Chanel-like fit and sleeve movement. Here are some pictures:
Likes/Dislikes: I love this version. Wearing it is like wearing a super-luxurious sweater.
Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? Yes, yes and yes! I started this jacket in December of 2009. Thanks to a little bump in the road called cancer, it got put on the back burner. But I never abandoned it, and I’m so thrilled I finished it in time to bring it to Chicago for the Haute Couture Club of Chicago fashion show this weekend. I think I’ll make another version from the same muslin pattern in a different colorway for fall/winter. And can I also praise Susan Khalje and her classes? I’m going to, to the rafters. Susan is, in my never-very-humble opinion, the best couture teacher out there. If you have the chance to take a class with her, jump on it!
Conclusion: If I can say so, gorgeous! Here it is on Shelley:
And as an interesting comparison, here is this jacket, side by side with a version I made a couple of years back from the Vogue pattern as published. Same starting size, but note the difference in the breadth of the chest and shoulders.
This was one of the most rewarding projects I’ve done in a long time. I look forward to wearing it this weekend and for years to come.