Couture: (coo-toor) 1: the business of designing, making, and selling fashionable custom-made women’s clothing, 2: the designers and establishments engaged in couture, 3: the clothes created by couture
(source: Merriam-Webster.com)
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Author: Lynda Maynard
Publisher: Interweave Publishing
ISBN: 978-1-59668-247-4
Contents:
Couture Technique Selector
The Couturier’s Kit
Bindings and Finishes
Design Details: On Show
Design Details: Concealed
Designer Underpinnings
Directory of Luxury Fabrics
Essential Couture Techniques
Glossary
Resources
Index
Credits
Paperback or Hardbound? Hardbound, with an inner spiral binding, so it lays flat, which I really like.
Does this book have clear illustrations or photographs? Yes. It has very good illustrations.
On a scale of 1-10, how would you rate this book in the must-have category? Well, here’s the thing. I wouldn’t refer to most of the techniques illustrated in this book as couture. They are couture in the strictest interpretation of the first definition of the word. But when most sewing enthusiasts think of couture sewing techniques, we think of haute couture techniques. The first technique illustrated in this book is how to make a banded V-neck on knit fabric. Don’t get me wrong! The method is clearly illustrated, and very easy to follow. I’m going to use it on my next knit top. But it isn’t haute couture. I was also nonplussed by the prevalence of serged seams and edges in the example garments.
The book doesn’t include even some of the most basic haute couture sewing techniques. For example, a chapter called “Designer Underpinnings” that only talks about underlinings? Nothing anywhere about boning, corsetry, interfacing? Also, a minor nit perhaps, but the book reverses the definitions of petersham and grosgrain ribbons in the Directory of Luxury Fabrics chapter. But it shows a ribbon in a “Petersham ‘Peek’ Seam” that is, indeed, petersham ribbon. There are other examples I can give, but I think you see my point. Ultimately, this book is a decent reference for RTW techniques. It belongs in the same category as Claire Shaeffer’s High Fashion Sewing Secrets and Vogue & Butterick’s Designer Sewing Techniques.
I'm not turning into Mister Cranky Pants
Now, before anyone thinks I’m getting all Len Goodman here, let me just say that I like this book. It’s a clearly illustrated, well-put-together compendium of techniques that will give nice designer touches to your garment. I would recommend it for a beginner to intermediate who wants to add to their repertoire. But if you want a real reference for couture techniques, I’d recommend Claire Shaeffer’s Couture Sewing Techniques, Susan Khalje’s Bridal Couture, or Couture, The Art of Fine Sewing by Roberta Carr.
Conclusion: I hate saying it, but I was disappointed in this book. COUTURE is all in caps in the title, so I was expecting more. As I say, it has some good techniques that will give nice results. But I would rename it “The Dressmaker’s Handbook of Ready to Wear Sewing Techniques”.
Happy sewing!
I think it’s almost ridiculous that these new books are putting “couture” in the title to sucker you in. You’re review of this book pretty much mirrors mine.
Thank You for this great review!
I love that you put the Len Goodman picture in your post. Just as he always wants the DWTS dancers to base their routines upon the basics/steps of the dance, your review of the book is just as astute. I do have this book and wholeheartedly agree with your review. But I would recommend it if you were building a sewing library over some of the more crafty dreck that’s out there!
I had looked this book over at the brick & mortar bookstore and I put it back on the shelf. I still think Roberta Carr’s book, ‘Couture: The Fine Art of Sewing’ is the best.
Thank you for your thoughtful review, Ann. You saved me a few bucks and some space on m bookshelves!
Great review, Ann ! ..and what Gigi said
Thanks for the review. I had been looking at it on Amazon. Glad I waited .
Nice review, and might save some space on my shelf as well. I say might because I have the Schaefer and Khalje books you recommend, so I may get Roberta Carr’s book if I find it and don’t stop to think about how many books I already have.
I see you’ve written an number of reviews – have you ever done a post of your go-to or favorite inspiration/eye candy books in your sewing library? How many books do you have, and what do you do with those you acquired but then decide they really don’t earn the space on your shelf? Have you ever had one so bad (title is not neccessary!) it ended up in the trash rather than given away?
Thanks Gail! I did do a post on my A-list books Here. And yes indeed, I have donated some sewing books to the library in the hopes of
foisting them off onbenefitting somepoor unfortunatedeserving soul.I just bought the book on Monday
I thought those techniques were REALLY couture. However I take refuge in your comment that it’s still a good book for a beginner (case of sour grapes?). Since I am trying to improve my sewing many notches, I do find these techniques quite informative.
I love people who use the word “nonplussed”! I really need to add that word to my regular vocabulary!
I gave this book a similar review online. Decent illustrations and techniques, but no, it’s couture.
I wouldn’t mind seeing a review of “The Art of Couture Sewing” by Zoya Nudelman. I’ve leafed through it in the store. The photos look beautiful. But it’s over $80.
I reviewed it last year. You can see it here
Should have been: “but no, it’s NOT couture.”
Thanks for the review. I’ve actually moved the book up on my list because I figure I should learn RTW techniques before couture.
Exactly right, Ann. I have the book, and just as you say, the techniques are good, but…
You’ve given the book the review that I was thinking, but didn’t quite know how to articulate.
Well. I just read the book yesterday. My reaction about the first technique being a t-shirt neckband was exactly the same. What the ‘forget’!
The illustrations and step-by-step instructions were fine. I did notice that in the back of the book credit is given to someone else (the book is not near me now) for writing more than a few sections – it appeared to be enough to seem to warrant a joint authorship.
Ah, but no one would want to BUY a book called “The Dressmaker’s Handbook of Ready to Wear Sewing Techniques!” The word “couture” is sexy, and sexy sells books. Funny sells books, too, though — maybe they could rename the book, “The Novice Dressmaker’s Guide to Avoiding a Dorky Homemade Clothing Look.”
I agree with Rebecca. My aim in sewing is to avoid the “dorky homemade” look. My Tailoring instructor brought in a copy last week. She thought it good enough (of what is readily and currently available) that she’s going to be using it next semester in her classes. At the community college level, very few students have a lot of experience and the Fairchild testbooks geared to the sewing curriculum are hideously pricey. I had a chance to thumb through it and the cost was so reasonable that I’ve ordered it. There were some things I had not seen published before and the illustrations were very good, but like you said, not Couture.