… But in all good conscience, I can’t. Probably the single question I am asked most frequently is “I am making a Chanel-style jacket. Please please please do a tutorial on how to convert the two-piece sleeve from my pattern into a three-piece?”
Never piss off the Karma Gods.
Ah, my dears, I wish I could, but it’s not mine to give. I learned that technique from the wonderful, warm and gracious Susan Khalje. Susan is not only an amazing teacher, she’s also a friend. I can’t put her information, that earns her living, out in the public domain. That would just invite all sorts of bad juju, don’t you think?
But I did email Susan, who writes regular articles for Threads Magazine and for the Threads Website. If she posts it, I’ll let you know and I’ll link to it.
Speaking of juju, The Selfish Seamstress wrote a hilarious post about a related issue – how to respond when friends, acquaintances and even utter strangers ask you to trace off a pattern and send it to them. You have to read it! I’m not as ballsy as she is. I was howling laughing, and shaking my head because it has happened to me.
So please be patient. The Karma Gods and I both appreciate it.
Happy sewing!
AMEN.
Apparently, it is Debra Martin’s information too (http://debramartin.blogspot.com/2010/10/drafting-three-piece-sleeve.html). Also, Vogue 8259 has a 3-piece sleeve–lifted from Chanel in the first place perhaps? The technique of drafting a 3-piece sleeve–or anything else–is not proprietary. It is a technique, much like putting in a zipper, and one can share one’s knowledge no matter where one got it. What does belong to Ms. Khalje is the rights to any copy she writes on the subject.
Debra’s method is different from the one Susan showed me, Francesca. Thank you for pointing hers out to my readers. I think you missed my point. I can share any information I want. I choose not to, because I’m not going to take food off another person’s table by putting their technique out in the blogosphere without their express permission. As I say, that’s bad juju.
Hi Ann,
Actually I believe Susan did write an article on the technique for Threads magazine several years ago. So anyone who’s purchased the DVD archive should be able to look it up there. Since then I know Susan has made a bit of a revision, and for that info I’d recommend Susan’s class.
And funny, but even the directions for installing a zipper ad written on the inside if the C&C pkg are copyrighted.
Kudos to You for honoring the proprietary nature of Susans work.
Yes, the written instructions and drawings are copyrighted, but the technique is not. If you put in enough zippers to learn how to do it, then turn around and teach your daughter to put in a zipper that way, it’s fine. That’s teaching someone how to sew. Copyright is a tricksy subject.
Interesting. So, why would one want to convert a 2-piece sleeve to a 3-piece sleeve instead of buying a pattern with a 3-piece and using that sleeve? I know the Channel-style jacket that Claire Schaffer did for Vogue has a 3-piece sleeve, I’m sure other Vogue jacket patterns have them also. That is of course assuming that the requester has access to patterns on sale at Joann/Hancock stores. I could understand wanting to do this if they had to pay full price for patterns.
Unless they already have a 2-piece sleeve that fits well and hope coverting would be easier that starting over?
As Summerset said, AMEN !
A relfection of our entitlement society. Not only does Susan make a living from her information – but you paid your hard earned money to recieve it. Most people aren’t being ugly about it – they just don’t think it through (or don’t care). Thanks for the link to the article from “Selfish”. I actually had that happen to me – I was a bit taken aback to have a similar experience ~ was asked if my pattern could be borrowed since it was now just too expensive to buy ::sigh:: I had no clue who the person was. (btw – I bought that pattern when it was in the stores, but after going oop the market price skyrocketed.)
Can we hear a triple “AMEN”…
Blessings,
Patti
A friend shared this video with me. Love it!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2a8TRSgzZY
C’mon folks, let’s not get testy with each other. If you’re an IP attorney, I’d love to hear your views on this subject, but I’m still not going to publish Susan’s technique, mmmmkay?
On another subject, but sort of related….
I’m considering Khalji’s couture sewing workshop in March 2012. I’ve also looked at Claire Shaeffer’s workshop in January 2012 (full right now). I’m wondering if you have recommendations. I know Shaeffer’s workshop includes a reference book that you create during the workshop which appeals to me. But I like the fact that you can create what you want in Khalji’s workshop.
Ramona, I’ve never taken Claire’s workshop. Several of my friends have, and they loved it. I can heartily recommend Susan’s classes. I’ll open it up here. Readers – have any of you taken both Claire’s and Susan’s workshops? Can you give Ramona some feedback?
Thanks!
Ann
Thanks for trying, Ann. I appreciate the effort.
Love your blog. Keep it up.
Ann, I totally support your position in not posting Susan Khalje’s technique for these sleeves. I hope to be able to take both her workshop and Claire’s some day. In the interim, here are two alternatives to the sleeve question that I have found. Threads Magazine published a special edition of Designer Techniques in April that includes a great article by Claire S. on Chanel’s techniques. I imagine it is a reprint from a previous magazine but I have no idea which issue. The article does include a somewhat small and blurry diagram of Claire’s take on the 3-piece sleeve. I can’t get the link to load on the Thread’s website, but here is a link to one I found for sale on ebay from a U.K. seller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/THREADS-MAGAZINE-SPECIAL-DESIGNER-TECHNIQUES-/330596374439?pt=UK_Magazines&hash=item4cf91457a7#ht_1525wt_1147
The other option is an upcoming class on Pattern Review starting 11/15 by Angela Wolf on redesigning jacket sleeves. I am sure she has her own method. I have already signed up for that class.
I have no affiliation with either of these folks, just offering my suggestions.
DebB