Be prepared – it’s Ann-rant time. I have been talking with several sewing friends, and all have voiced similar frustration to mine. That is – where the hell are the good sewing books for us? We’re not beginners. We’re not all in our early 20s. We are fashionable. We like looking good. We enjoy challenging sewing projects. But there isn’t much on the market for us.
For example, I spent an afternoon last weekend at my local Barnes & Noble. Of course, I had to check out the sewing books section. What I found there was great for young, beginner level stitchers. For folks like me? Not so much. I don’t sew cute cotton dresses. I’m not interested in patterns and styles that border on twee. I’m not interested in looks that are so cerebral that they border on costume. I tire of the wall of sherbet colored books with titles done in cute fonts that look like hand stitches. Don’t get me wrong. There is clearly a market for these books. I’m just not part of it.
I like to think of myself as an aspirational stitcher. I know how to do all the basics. I can teach the basics, and I can teach a lot of the not-so-basics. What I want is to learn cool new techniques. I want to learn how to do some of the things that I’ve seen on the runways at Fashion Week – things that a real woman could wear. I want to work with difficult fabrics. I want to challenge myself. Pastel dresses? Nope, not for this girl woman.
I already own all the books written by Susan Khalje, Kenneth King, Claire Shaeffer and David Page Coffin. The problem is that they’ve all been around for a while. There isn’t anything new for intermediate to advanced stitchers in the retail market. I’ve taken to collecting college texts. They have more interesting techniques. Zoya Nudelman’s Couture and Julie Cole’s and Sharon Czachor’s Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers are good. Of course, they’re college textbooks, so they are not cheap.
I don’t have a solution, and I haven’t heard of any books coming on the market, but boy, I’d love it if some fabulous couture teacher would put together a book for someone like me. Maybe I’ll write my letter to Santa now, to give him some lead time.
Happy sewing!
Amen! I couldn’t agree with you more.
Pearl
This is a very good point.
Is it possible that this is a new project for you???
Although my sewing skills are not in your league, I also wonder ‘where are the books for us older folk’? My problem is that I can’t figure out what I would want from such a book. Suggestions?
Sing it, Sister!
…I am SO with you on this.
I’m convinced that the older sewist doesn’t matter to the publishers. They have us and our dollars…they are trying to hook the younger sewist whose dollars presumably have a longer shelf life. To me the one hole in that theory is that I have MORE disposable income and am willing to spend MORE for a sewing book/supplies/fabric than most beginning sewists. Of all the new sewing books that have come out, I did purchase the Colette sewing book but then again I don’t consider myself on your sewing level either so can only imagine how frustrated you must be!
Okay then, that’s a project that’s just waiting for the right enterprising writer & editor. And it doesn’t have to be traditionally published—it could be an ebook project (perhaps in chapters even rather than a full book).
Can you get the good folk at Threads on board? They have the infrastructure to handle this.
That’s what I would like as well. And would it be too much to ask of them NOT to use illustrations, but color photos instead?!
Gee a couple of book/blog/pattern companies whose work makes me cringe comes to mind. Just yesterday one of them was waxing rhapsodically about the fashion of vintage *housedresses* of all things. A garment my grandmother wore while she did housework because she only owned 2 or 3 good dresses to her name and she had to keep them clean. And don’t get me started on aprons…
I’m only a beginner (but an avid, if not addicted sewing book collector), however I think you’re right!
Perhaps someone should gently petition suitable authors to see if they’d consider writing something? Maybe sewists could start a online petition (new dedicated blog?) and forward the link the publishing houses to show them that there is a valid market fr such titles
I’m in the same boat as well. I’m in my early 30s, been sewing since I was 8 years old, and would love books that push me to learn new techniques. But after looking around for books to add to my holiday wishlist, most sewing books out there seem to fall into one of three categories: books aimed at teenagers just getting into sewing; books aimed at middle-aged home-sewists, complete with frumpy patterns and photos from the 80s; or expensive textbooks for fashion design students, often more industry theory than practical sewing or fitting techniques.
I managed to find a couple of titles I thought could be good additions to my bookshelf, and from those my mom (who taught me to sew in the first place) zeroed in on the best of bunch — Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Pepin. It’s not a new book (originally published in 1942, reprinted in 2010) so it doesn’t disprove that publishers tend to ignore this subsection of the market, but holy cow is it a good book. There aren’t any photos and the fashions illustrated are from the late 1930s and early 40s, but it starts right in with what a sloper is and how to draft a custom one, and then gets very technical about how to work from that sloper to make basically unlimited pattern variations. It’s not a beginners book at all, but if you’ve got a few years of sewing under your belt, this book will help you move away from being limited to what a commercial pattern dictates. I really can’t recommend it enough.
Good news. One of my tech editors pointed me towards this discussion — we are a small knit-publishing company who is expanding into sewing books this year. I know EXACTLY what you’re talking about here! And I would *love* to hear from anyone who’s thinking they might want to write a book, or who knows someone who should…let’s do this!
Ditto AMEN! Just last week I was browsing my local bookstore and found the same lack luster (uninspiring) array of books for beginners. I’m so hungry for a new sewing book with interesting and challenging techniques!!! Also agree with Erica B that I want pretty color photos that will help inspire.
I so agree with you, there is nothing new out there for us. I’ve taken to reading dressmaking books from the 1910′s and 1920′s on google books many of which have techniques which can be adapted to todays (and I don’t mean retro) clothes that I have never seen elsewhere.
Well said! I love my older sewing reference books, but the photos in my go-to Vogue Sewing Book were outdated when I got it 25 years ago, and many techniques could use an update. I’ve had a few of the newer style “sewing books” given to me as gifts, but I don’t want to make the home accessories/clothing made from quilting cotton even if the patterns are included. I try to preview anything I’m interested in by reading the public library copy first. If that’s good, I’ll invest. I used to subscribe to a certain sewing magazine, but found that, while informative, the articles often display clothing that would not likely be appealing to me for another decade or two. Perhaps that’s why I spend so much time reading sewing blogs for inspiration!
Hear hear!!!!! (slight side grumble – the beginner books are pitched at a readership older than my twelve year old and I struggle to find books to appeal to her too). My dream books would cover complicated patternmaking, challenging techniques and inspiring ideas (yeah, detailed wishlist I know) I have enough years of experience figuring out how something is put together by looking at it that I want to see things I CAN’T figure out by looking at them!
You know Susan Khalje – ask her to write another book, just for you
I want to see women my age looking fabulous.
And, by that, I am referring to a VERY WIDE age-group, say 35 and up.
Recently I have been scouting around the internet for fashion inspiration and I do get tired of seeing 98% of images are 20-somethings.
Have you seen Gertie’s New Blog for better sewing?
She does more vintage sewing but she does cover some more advanced techniques and I’ve found that I’ve learned from her, but I’m just barely an intermediate sewist.
Gertie is a good friend, and I’m so looking forward to her book, Tez!
I am so glad I am not alone! I love puzzling patterns and fiddly fabric
I am glad I have found people who do not want to limit themselves with books and patterns available. I have access to a huge knowledge base in several languages and many experienced dressmakers and patternmakers and I concider myself very lucky that I can always find a way to push my sewing boundaries.
Oh I hear you, I hear you , I hear you!!!!! The only decent books I’ve bought in recent years are the Japanese books (eg. Pattern Magic). Personally I think the same thing is happening to patterns too. Patterns are being ‘dumbed-down’ to the point where all the great details that make a pattern interesting, and even basic details like pockets, linings, etc. are removed from the pattern leaving nothing but a bland, boring pattern. If I see another basic straight skirt pattern I think I’ll scream!
Yep. I’m on board here too. I’m thrilled to be turning the BIG 6-0 this year…….yay me! I made it to another milestone, practically intact. I have the time…….more spare dollars…….and am I ever keen. My brain is free of outside influences. I am ready to move on……evolve…….create…..learn. I’ve spent the last couple of years polishing up my old skills (they hadn’t been used for awhile), but where to go from here?
I’ve been reading a lot of pattern drafting books, the Japanese pattern magic books, and FIT textbooks.
The Cabrera books on tailoring are excellent.
You have hit home on this one! I too own the books by good people you mentioned and am always on the lookout for new ones. And I heartily agree with Erica that there should be plenty of color pictures or at the very least colored sketches. For those of us with mature vision this would be very helpful.
I also don’t understand the quilting cotton for clothing trend. Cute on my grandkids, maybe, but definitely not appropriate for my office environment. I applaud the industry for getting the new generation interested in sewing, but there is still a market for those of us who enjoy making fine clothing and not looking like a Steam Punker or origami shape on a daily basis.
Ditto.
Totally agree! When Threads started focusing on beginning sewers they got a lot of angry mail. What passes for sewing books now is a collection of tips. And the last set I saw was not very good. I love DPC’s books on shirts and pants. I even like the Threads series on garment types. I want to see big clear photos and beautiful fabric and garment lines. I don’t need to know how to sew on a button. I want ideas on how to place buttons differently and embellish them and substitute different closings. I want my garments to be better than RTW and I need books that help me get there. Do they realize how much disposable income olders sewers have? What a waste of an untapped market!
Our culture has dumbed down fashion, period. If you aren’t keen on logo T shirts (made of crappy fabric that disintegrates after two washings) and ratty jeans, you are out of luck. I have found that two of my favorite RTW clothing stores have recently featured some poorly constructed garments and everything is starting to look the same. To sew is the ability to change all of this. Most of us have been at this game for quite a while. Most are likely to have at least intermediate in skill and looking for inspiration and updated techniques. I am looking forward to seeing Gertie’s book. I am finding great information in two sewing books that I thought I had given away but found the other day. They are from the 1940′s. Wonder if anyone will pick up on this? We are a huge market, someone surely will hear us.
This is the same reason I dropped my Threads sub. (and get no sewing magazines at this time–nothing out there IMO). I’ll buy a single if I find something interesting,, and that has not been that often. Lots of stuff I’d never do or want to do and lots of “already know that.” And I’m no where near your sewing caliber, Ann, but I have been sewing a very long time. Bring on a new book!
First Ann, Congrats on your continued health!!!
I agree about the books for older/advanced/experienced sewists. I think you would be perfect to write a book for all of us!
I hope there is room on the soapbox for me. It seems like women of a certain age are not the desired demographic.
Thanks Ann. Totally agree with you all. I regularly check Amazon to see what titles will be published in the next few months, and check the bookstore selection often, just hoping. On top of the books you all have mentioned I do like my Threads magazine dvd archive, and I’d like it if Vogue Patterns magazine came out with something similar.Sandra Betzina’s books have interesting techniques and ideas as well.
I’d love to know the titles and authors of the old dressmaking, patternmaking and tailoring books you all love.
I completely agree!
Color me perplexed.
There are some of us who write exhaustively detailed tutorials on our sewing blogs featuring “more advanced” sewing techniques…and get a mere handful of comments for our efforts….despite several hundreds of sewists visiting our blogs every day.
A “sewing friend” of mine recently lost her dog, and I do feel badly about that, it is very sad. The blog post about the dog was acknowledged by over 100 people. Other “sewing” bloggers do little but post photos of what they wear every day, and get tons of acknowledgement for their cute poses in front of the camera. They *do* look great….that’s not the point.
My point is this– The number of comments those kind of Sewing Blog posts generate, compared to the ones many “advanced technique” tutorials (not just mine) receive makes me wonder if there *really* is a thirst for information about “more advanced” techniques that some of us are already writing about and gladly sharing with everyone. It’s perplexing
Excellent point, Pam. I’m guilty of using blogs more to socialize than to learn. Thanks for giving me something to think about!
Agree with Pam one hundred percent.
I’m glad you brought this up, Pam. I can tell you one reason for the fewer comments from my little corner of the world. I love seeing tutorial blog posts. However, I’m still a beginner sewer, and one without a lot of time to put towards her hobby at that. So, unless a technique is one I’m in the midst of doing or planning to do soon (usually unlikely given the broad range of skills you ladies possess and the little time I have to devote), I just don’t have anything to say. I do usually try to leave a thank you comment, because I do truly appreciate these posts. I file them away for future reference, but it may be 6 months to a year or more before I get back to it. In the future I’ll make sure to express my gratitude to all you wonderful folks who take the time to share your expertise.
Pam, I am one of those who read all of your posts but seldom respond. You are appreciated. I am making an effort to reply and comment more often so that bloggers don’t feel their work falls on deaf ears. I’ve been sewing since 1957 (I think) but still feel I have much to learn. I do not blog, but I am an avid reader. My grand-daughter is learning to sew and some of the books being published are great for her, but not all the cutesy stuff. I get books for her that concentrate on technique so that she can apply what she learns to her own particular sewing projects. A recent gift was Zombie Softies and a stack of felt. I go through her books to see if I can learn anything and then give the books to her. Most do not have much to offer. I do subscribe to Threads and feel that they are moving back to more substantial sewing techniques and ideas. Most books on the shelf at bookstores are too basic.
I’m guilty, Pam. I read your blog (as well as Ann’s) regularly. After I read one of your tutorials my (selfish) focus is on trying the technique out, not expressing the thanks I do have for your unselfish time and effort expended in doing tutorials. So THANK YOU, Pam and Ann!
I couldn’t agree with you more, Pam.
I remain rather quiet in the blogosphere because I’ ve seen readers’ comments that reach beyond flattery are seldom welcomed and secondary questions and conversation are often ignored. I often wonder what kind of commentor I am, and whether I am revealing my self in print the way I want to be perceived. I would like to be seen as inquisitive and wonder am I coming off as challenging or a know-it-all?
For some time I’ve been thinking about writing a blog entry that clarifies and defines the kind of comments I want to encourage from my readers, but can’t seem to come up with the appropriate words to express what I want to say. Just like Ann, I’m looking for more heft to what I’m learning and hope to clarify the reason I take time to blog…and I hope to identify others that seek the same thing through this form of communication.
Thank you, Pam for your courage and comment.
Hi Pam, I love your blog. I’m not sure If I have commented or not, but every new post and all tutorials are appreciated. I guess my reason for not commenting might be that I don’t think I have much worthwhile to add and that my English is not perfect. I shall certainly take the time to post my thanks and comment more in the future. Hugs from Oslo, Norway.
We may comment on the conversational blogs, but we bookmark and link to blogs like yours! . . .but yes that’s invisible and we will speak up more. (Trackbacks are so impersonal.)
And it’s not just with fashion sewing. Frustrating. Hopefully Santa listens.
Great post, Ann. I agree with what all the points made above. The only sewing book I’ve bought lately was The Burda Sewing Handbook and this seemed to be strictly aimed those in their twenties.
Just because I’m not young doesn’t mean I want to wear caftans or tents. Also, we don’t need anymore patterns for messenger bags, totes and aprons. There are quite enough already.
It would be nice to have publications with a fusion of fashion and technique. Vogue Patterns sometimes hits the mark. This might work better in a magazine than in a book but either would be welcome.. I’m looking forward to Gertie’s book as well.
While I am not near as proficient sewist as you or many of your commenters, I can totally understand. I haven’t really found a new book in a couple of years, it’s been older books that I’ve been picking up lately. It’s not just the sewing books either, the knitting, crochet and especially needlework books also seem to be headed in the same cute/craft direction. On one hand, it’s great that they are working on pulling new people into the hobbies, on the other hand, how long will it take before those new ones get bored with what’s offered and wander off to the next new “hot” hobby?
I guess for me, that’s where the internet comes into play, reading blogs such as yours, the forums, and on occasion, some fashion sites.
Thank you for composing so eloquently exactly what I feel every time I browse B&N. And I’m still a beginner! I also second others comments: I’m in a position to put out more money for books and fabrics than when I was younger, and clear, color photos are a must. I did buy the Colette book, and will pre-order Gertie’s when it becomes available, but am just not seeing much of anything else.
hit the nail right on the head, ann. as great as it is to be able to turn to the google when i’m looking up something advanced, it was frustrating for me when i was trying to learn tailoring that kenneth’s book was the only start-to-finish tailoring book out there, for example. we need more books like the amazing susan khalje’s “bridal couture”–because everything in that book can be applied to something else and leave one with new inspiration. and as much as i love the colette book for its great use of basic patterns for inspirational looks, not to mention how much i appreciate sarai’s obviously more sophisticated presentation, more book’s like sarai’s and gertie’s aren’t a solution, either.
Okay all – a couple of things from the perspective of a person in the Publishing industry:
1) all audiences are like a pyramid: a wide base of beginners and a very small number of professionals. Book publishing is a business, so the margins are better if you hit the bottom of that pyramid.
2) B&N is the wrong place to look for specialized content. The buyer in the corporate office knows about the pyramid and is mindful of the “real estate” she has to play with – for the whole section.
3) Publishers who specialize in high level content need authors. Blogs are a great way to find content for books, but it’s still work! If you want to write a book, there is a house that will publish you. Tauton (Publisher of Threads) is a great example. But if you have a book you love, look at who the publisher is and sign up for their mailing list.
4) Don’t ignore textbooks. The line between a handbook for a professional and graduate student is a fine one. We publishers know that sometimes, if we invest in creating a pedagody for a textbook, it will mean far more sales than we’d get if we called the book a handbook.
ps. I’m an intermediate sewist. I love blogs because the inspire me, even if I’m not ready for the techniques I see. I may not comment now, but I might when I’m ready.
I’m not in the publishing industry, but I was going to pretty much say what you just said here, Evelyn–my guess is that it’s partly a problem of markets and audience. There are many many beginners, or potential beginners, who will buy books about “easy” sewing with quilting cottons and patterns that don’t even include bust darts… but only so many will stick around to get more and more advanced in their sewing. I think the Colette and Built By Wendy books–while more aimed at 20 and 30-somethings, I think–do a reasonable job of appealing to both beginning and beginning/intermediate sewists who want to use more complex patterns and fabric…
But when you get past that into more serious techniques, the options really thin out!
When I first started getting into sewing, I was very serious-minded about it all and wanted to do it RIGHT… so I subscribed to Threads and bought books by all four authors you mention, and all the techniques books from Taunton Press, even though I was nowhere near the point of being able to do even a quarter of that stuff. I also own a good number of textbooks bought used from the FIT bookstore…
It’s such a bummer, though.
And Pam, I totally read your tutorials, even though I haven’t gotten into shirtmaking yet. But I will totally admit to being more likely to comment on a cute sewn outfit photo shoot…
Pam ~Off The Cuff~ You are right. You and a few others do put together high quality advanced tutorials, and they do not get the number of comments they deserve. They are informative and fill a gap in the market. You are very appreciated by us!
While I am often reading blogs to pick up new ideas and techniques, I find that for me, the status of online tutorials feels a bit tenuous. While I may find a great tutorial one day, it can be quite tough to remember exactly where it is located once I actually want to use it a few weeks or months down the line. And there is always the possibility of the blog being taken down. There is something about the permanence of a book that is comforting. I would love to see quality tutorials updated in a book that I could hang onto.
I don’t think that there is a market for dozens of new advanced sewing books each year but there is a market for a handful to be released each year. I would much rather purchase one really good book as a resource each year, even if it is expensive, than trying to memorize the location of the rare, usable bits of new ideas and techniques in dozens of new beginner books. I don’t want books with projects at this point. I want history and context, pictures, techniques and inspiration.
Thanks for the soapbox, Ann!
Elizabeth, I was going to respond to Pam too, but you said exactly what I thought, and probably better than I could!
You can bookmark a particular post that has an intriguing technique. That’s what I’m starting to do now instead of hoping I can find it later on someone’s blog.
I copy the tutorials that I find helpful, print them out, and collect them in a “sewing binder”. It has helped me out tremendously!
I fall into the twenty-something age group and I still think that the books are missing the mark. While frilly sundresses are nice, the patterns are the same lackluster dresses that I can walk into Forever 21 and see multiple variations of. I want something unique and challenging (and something I can wear to the office).
I LOVE Pam’s blog (and probably don’t comment enough). I have printed off all of her tuts I think. Love the collar one; its my “go to”. Plan to copy the newest about shirt “tweeking.” Pam, will you write a book???? I’d LOVE to buy it! Now, off to leave a comment on Pam’s blog.
I agree with your rant. And as an undergrad English Lit minor — well you can just guess how I feel about BOOKS in general. You can’t find the books you are describing because for the most part they are just not out there!
However, technology has changed and it’s a pretty good thing — as a substitute. Instead of a book with One person’s opinions, info there are literally hundreds of blogs out there by our fellow sewers. You find the ones you love, the ones whose technique you wish to emulate, the dreay ones and bookmark the — or print it out and design your OWN book–with the help of a printer, a 3 hole punch and making your own table of contents.
Your book updates by you finding something new you wish to add. And that is if you wish to use print/paper techology. The tech alternative of course is a little $20 dollar thub drive where you upload and have the whole “book” fit on your keychain.
What do you think? YOUR blog/site is def a favorite of mine and so many others. And we can tell you visit many others as well. Remember the old saying, ” No crying over spilt milk”? Same idea.
Another ditto from me. I was at one of Heather Ross’ NYC workshops in November, and I basically said the same to her. We were specifically talking about the Colette Patterns book (as in, I want the patterns, but don’t need another beginner’s book) and she said that the whole sewing/craft publishing industry is really struggling with that whole question now: how do you sell a book to a smaller niche of consumers and make it worthwhile? I sure don’t know the answer…
And, Pam, I looove your tutorials and have a few of them printed out! Next time I do so, I’ll comment and tell you how helpful you are in my sewing
Preach it!
I completely agree. I started making clothes because I couldn’t find ones at the store that fit me of decent quality. I want inspiration books of interesting ideas and classic good sewing techniques. Not beginner. Couture is fascinating, but there is a big gap between bad RTW and couture. How to make very good custom RTW quality. You can’t buy good RTW anymore. So I make it. And if I spend that kind of time making a garment, I want to wear it for years. Not see it as too twee in a month!
I no longer subscribe to Threads, though I will page through it to see if there’s something worth buying it for. About 1 issue every year or 2. I’m in my late 30′s and I remember the bad 80′s and 90′s clothes. I don’t want to learn how to make them!
I buy any sewing book that has 2 decent techniques or projects in it. My standards are very low at this point. I’m completely addicted to sewing books but haven’t bought any recently because there aren’t any!
Wow, how did I miss this post yesterday? I just saw it mentioned in today’s post.
HEAR HEAR. I have the same books as you, Ann, and don’t generally buy new sewing books as they are too “off demographic” for me, not being a twee, thin, young, new sewist, who wants to buy a large (ie. MY size) garment to refashion into a vest, purse and a belt. (About the only thing in a thrift store that would have enough yardage for my frame are tablecloths, sheets, blankets…)
What do I want to see? I want to see books on techniques. Interesting “designer” techniques. Books like this used to be published, but we can use some new ones. I do read blogs, and I use Pinterest and have a board dedicated to techniques. But, as has been mentioned, blogs can go away.
I also enjoy a quality, well produced DVD, such as Louise Cutting’s DVDs she made for Threads. And I enjoy Marcy Tilton’s DVDs, particularly her Inspiration Paris DVD. But, for me, designer techniques are king.
I agree, there is a lack of contemporary sewing books available for those above the beginner level, but who perhaps don’t have the inclination or time to use couture techniques. I have quite a large selection of sewing books, and the older ones bought in thrift stores do expect a higher level of sewing aptitude from their readers than the modern equivalents do. A lot of the older home sewing techniques just aren’t deemed acceptable by today’s standards though, where “it looks just like a real one from a shop” is deemed the biggest compliment possible. (Personally I’d like my clothes to be a lot better than RTW, but that is a whole other discussion!). There have been some good books published in the past couple of years, but sometimes I have had the impression that we have been given an abridged version – that the author had so much more to offer but was held back by the publisher.
For the time being I enjoy reading about the more advanced techniques while my actual skillset improves. I am lucky enough to be of a generation where I wasn’t drilled at school as to the rights and wrongs of sewing, so don’t have the sewing fears that a lot of people developed. I would say that a lot of beginning sewists are ready and willing to have a go at the more advanced techniques, just look around the blogsphere. Modern advanced techniques for modern advanced projects might be more popular than the publishing companies think.
I’m going to post some ‘thank-you’ comments on a few tutorials now!
I wholeheartedly agree. Until last year I worked in a bookstore and would often escape to the needlework section to see what’s new. For the past couple of years, it’s been a lot of re-fashioning and diy type publications. I am by no means an advanced seamstress but I really would like some titles with more substance.
I want to acknowledge two most recently published books _Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting_ by Sarah Veblen and Lynda Maynard’s _The Dressmaker’s Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques_ as well as Sandra Betzina’s Toolbox books (granted these are books full of tips).
While I like and ordered the Colette book, it’s patterns are well enough without the book.
Here is the book I would like to buy– it features a woman (not girl wet behind the ears from college) character– for example — Lily Van der Woodson (Gossip Girl)– very stylish — some patterns that are inspired by her look with some colors/makeup/hair directions and tips on accessorizing– basically a SWAP stylist session in a book and there could be a series of such books, all based on different persona. A fashion/style profile with a couple patterns included and a color palette. I have enough sewing technique books, I need inspiration and help putting it all together. So there you have NY socialite style icon, pick some other tv style examples– How about the Once Upon a Time school teacher– Mary Margaret (Ginnifer Goodwin)– she favors a retro look that is not costumy or destined for those under 30, or the schoolteacher Mom from Pretty Little Liars like Holly Marie Combs who used to play Piper on Charmed– she sports a more bohemian style, Dana Delaney’s character Megan Hunt on Body of Proof or Brenda’s character on The Closer for more professional wear but obvious different styles. I could go on about more characters, many of which are not primary on their movie and television shows.
Another kind of retro I would like to see is one that has other eras and adaptations one could make for different figure types including, ahem, the mature figure. Many of us would look ridiculous in those poofy skirts and we know how ridiculous because we watched that episode of Mad Men in which Betty visits home and sees her father’s girlfriend who is dressed in a full poofy circle skirt.
Have you ever looked at The Little Black Dress: How to Make the Perfect One for You?
http://www.amazon.com/Little-Black-Dress-Make-Perfect/dp/1861086237/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1327444182&sr=1-4
Another AMEN! I thought it was just me that had a problem with all these sherbert colored books with their sherbert colored “projects” that will be out of date in six months or six weeks …
For those of you who do write more advanced sewing blogs, please don’t stop. Sometimes it’s just hard to find the better blogs in the sea of “silly stuff” and all those APRONS (what is up with aprons, anyway?) but I will find it, others will, too, and what a sigh of relief when we do! I do bookmark my favorites and I’m always on the lookout for more so I hope all of you will keep writing.
” (what is up with aprons, anyway?)”
It’s called the dumbing down of America. It’s “unfair” that life is short, that skills take time to master, and that you actually have to buy decent tools to get decent results. You can sew a couture apron right after you’ve become fluent in Italian in a weekend.
I feel like an old grump, but truth to tell, I was not raised with the idea that everything was supposed to be easy and that I could do everything just because I thought it might be fun. I understood that work might be involved.
KIDS, GET OFF MY SEWING TABLE! (Wish I had a sewing table.)
“KIDS, GET OFF MY SEWING TABLE!”
Pam – regarding the comments left (or not left) on tutorials vs. “my dog died” posts, I don’t think it’s intentional. Somehow it’s a whole lot easier to comment “I’m so sorry about the dog”, than comment “wonderful tutorial”, especially if I haven’t tried it yet. Maybe because reading tutorials requires some thinking, instead of hitting emotional reaction button?
I don’t think many of us realize how long it takes to write a good tutorial. Another part might be timing – I know I’ve bookmarked many to use later, intending to let the author know if it helped, and later hasn’t come yet. Perhaps I need to leave a comment when I bookmark them, instead of intending to whenever I actually get around to using them, which at my current sewing rate might be….years?
BINGO – PERFECT, I have been feeling this way about sewing and knitting blogs and books for a long time! My wallet closes up when I find the first 20 pages are all about the beginner stuff. No more aprons and sweatshirts converted to a cardigan. Glad to find out I am not the only one looking for insperational books and blogs with a higher expertise level and are ready to open their wallets.
Janice
Southeastern WI
I totally agree with you and all of the above. The last 3 books I have bought from Taunton Publishers I have given to Goodwill as I found them too Beginner with information that does a beginner unjustlly. I also wanted to let you know that I sent this blog and its comments to Taunton Publishers. I feel potential authors could be you, Louise Cutting, Mary Ray as this could show the more creative side of sewing—going beyond the pattern.
I’m still a newbie, so I want to make sure I understand the argument. At the risk of over-simplifying, is what’s missing more books that cover RTW techniques, tailoring and/or couture? More like the Power Sewing Toolbox books and/or the Threads Industry Insider Techniques DVDs? I’d love to see Trudy from HotPatterns do a book; her designs are more fashion forward and her video tutorials are good.
As much as I’d like to see something different on the market, my suspicion is that there comes a point where a sewer has to put together her design aesthetic and pattern fitting requirements with the right techniques and in-person teachers or tutors. It’s unlikely that one book or video is going to serve all readers.
As for level of detail, I liked Claire Shaeffer’s Couture Workshop Basics DVD. Yes, some of the techniques were well known to me, but she gave good illustrations and explanations and it was thorough. I believe she’s working on a tailoring DVD.
I am really with you, and this is a topic I’ve been mulling on quite a bit. I think there is a bit of a generation gap in the sewing world. I really don’t know many women my age who sew (I’m a 40-something). It just wasn’t a very common hobby/skill among my peers when I was in my teens and 20s unless one was really, really into fashion. I loved the first generation of sewing blogs that came in the mid-2000s because they were loaded with techniques and teaching, some quite advanced. Since then sewing culture has exploded out the wazoo, as has social networking and lifestyle blogging. And most of that culture is under 30 and are coming to sewing from a DIY ethos. It is a huge market and one thing the younger generation has is online publishing savvy–there is a lot to learn from this!
I really want to encourage all the older or more advanced sewer/bloggers to keep writing and sharing tips. Some of my favorite earlier sewing writers are no longer blogging but you might be reading this. I want to give you a huge thank you. You are the “mothers’ of the sewing community! As blog writers, you’re pretty much already writing the book. Very few tech and craft writers now seem to publish books unless they are blog teachers/authors first. In other words, you’re the ones to write these books! It’s work but book-writing can be very rewarding.
“Very few tech and craft writers now seem to publish books unless they are blog teachers/authors first.”
That’s because the publisher is hoping that the writer will have developed a market for the book. I had an experienced screenwriting teacher who’d published at least two books. He also is an adjunct at a well known film school. He asked me to friend him on a social networking website because his publisher wanted him to have more of an online presence.
I’ve been thinking that Colette Patterns is probably going to write some more books over the next couple of years, and it would make sense for them to go up a level at a time. They have got the ball rolling — as in giving tons of free value away on there site, continually adding new stuff and building a large organic audience. All the ingreadients for a decent movement. The thing I love, is that this project/business reminds me of the Harry Potter series, in that Rowling started with a very juvenile book, but as the series progressed, the books also matured. I see Sarai doing the same think with garment sewing which makes me happy. Finally, why the negative remark about color choice? That’s is the very last thing to look for in a sewing book. Color theory, or design, is better found using your own croquis, or reading a design book.
Ann, I agree with others — this may be YOUR book to write. You know so much more than many of us do, and it would tie in so nicely with your online fabric shop — you could even sell the book in your shop if you self-published. I’m too old for the cutesy stuff, but I don’t know enough to confidently tackle “challenging” sewing. What we need are sewing books that dissect current RTW trends that are wearable on real women in their 30s and beyond, explaining how to get a great fit and professional results using amazing fabrics like the ones in your shop. You can sign us all up to pre-order the first copies!
After I read this post I kept thinking about it, then I came back to read it again and found all the insightful comments. I have a big YES to what Ann is giving voice to here, I’ve had the same wonderings and yearning for sewing/designing books that reflect an aesthetic I see in other publications. I pick up those brightly colored books too, and put them back. Fun for a minute, but not relevant. In one of my studio purges I simply packed up my books on sewing techniques and put them away, had not referred to them in years. And I’ve been wondering who/how would the information people are yearning for here will be passed on. Not only the next generation of authors, but teachers too….sewing is so ingrained in the oral tradition. I’d love to see books that integrate fine design as well as technique, and show how the two are interwoven.
I’m dreaming of the ideal book or series of books. It would have to be visually beautiful with meaningful content. Annie Lebovitz would do the photography. Design & execution could be vetted/curated by real designers (for instance people who have won awards like the Cooper-Hewitt museum awards in fashion design: Isobel Toledo, the Mulvaney sisters of Rodarte, Issey Miyake & Donna Karan—I’m dreaming here!).Techniques would use the Cooks Illustrated magazine method of taking one thing; examining, fine tuning, simplifying and making it relevant for today. It could be a series like the Canal House cookbooks which are small, simple beautiful and come out 3 x each year and relate to the seasons, and have the visual appeal of Selvedge (there could be curated ads too). Could fold in the best of blogs too. Would need a top book designer. Could be available as an e-book that might include videos and hot links. There could be ancillary on-line courses and webinars to teach and to keep the community aspect alive. Then there could be spin-off face-to-face real time events, which could keep ideas fresh and percolating.
Dreaming big, keeping this conversation going….Ann, hope our paths cross one of these days!
Marcy Tilton
Wonderful thoughtful post, Marcy. I too hope our paths cross, sooner rather than later!
Hugs
Ann
Love the inspiration and aspiration Marcy!
Fabulous idea! I hope with all my heart someone with publishing clout takes notice.
Pam, I would love, love, love you to write a book about shirtmaking and pattern drafting. I love your posts and learn so much from them.
Ann, the same for you! I think you make amazing clothes that are age appropriate, yet aren’t boring or dowdy. You’d write a fabulous book for mature fashionistas.
Yes, yes, yes! I agree with you completely! I don’t feel old (I turned 40 today!) But I don’t want to be dressed like a doily or a bowl of sherbet. Dressing “vintage” makes me feel like Mrs. Havisham, not cute and sassy at all.
When Burda was going to publish a sewing book, I got really excited. After all their magazine, has some pretty ambitious patterns from time to time. The book doesn’t even have the application of a fly-front zipper!!!! Of course, I didn’t buy it.
I’d love to see a publishing house collaborate with some of the more experienced sewing bloggers out there. People like yourself, Bunny, Erica, Tanny, etc.
I understand the frustration. I personally consider myself an advanced beginner/intermediate in view of the number of clothes I’ve made for myself, but by the standard of most home sewing blogs I’m advanced. I’ve taken several rigorous classes and know how to sew the right way and usually have several alternative techniques at my command to solve a problem. I find it absolutely mind-boggling when certain blogs treat basic garment construction techniques such as pressing properly as if they were optional.
Some of these people have book deals. How does that happen? Understand, I’m not some envious wannabe sewing book author. I simply don’t get it.
–I see blogs with “tutorials” by neophytes that are not teaching basic skills.
–I see blogs by pattern companies with photos of customers wearing extremely badly fitting clothing.
–I see blogs illustrating techniques on which it’s clear that the author learned the technique the day before.
–I’ve seen idiots — there’s no other word for it — declare that experience doesn’t matter.
Having said all that, I think it would be hard for a publisher to simply come up with a book for the audience you describe. Some people would be more interested in fitting, others in couture techniques, others in tailoring. One way to go about it would be to create a blog featuring one interesting runway offering a week with the technique translated into a real woman’s garment. I am not talking Threads Magazine style. It’s a helpful periodical, but too many of its garments are too dumbed down because of the audience’s skill level. I’ll never forget their version of a painted designer coat. It looked like a child had gone crazy with her paint set on a canvas coat.
I’m also not talking about a feature on a blog I used to read in which they would post a photo from an Anthropologie catalogue, then find a pattern with cover that looked similar and some fabric and suggest that the spirit of the first dress could be captured. Show it to me with a finished garment.
Posts with enough interest could be developed into a book. It would be essential that the person(s) doing them have the requisite taste and skill level and really good people aren’t going to put in that kind of time for free. Maybe it could be done by subscription. I love that so much information on the web is free, but often you do get what you pay for.
quejecouse:
As you say, it will be tough for a publisher to meet all of the needs outlined here. I think that there are some really fantastic ideas in response to Ann’s post that publishers can take and run with. I’m excited to see what may come of this.
I agree that many professionals are not going to put their time in to create much free content. As far as paid web content goes, I like the videos that Sandra Betzina has put together that are available on her website via subscription. I subscribed some time ago and the videos allowed me to expand my skills. I found that the demos were close to an in-class experience, which is great. I’d love to see more of this type of show, at the same level, more advanced, and showing the creative process and interesting and challenging ideas.
When I see a tutorial on the web, I know to take it with a grain of salt: the author may or may not be experienced; the technique illustrated may or may not be “correct” according to the experts; or the author may not be 100% careful or accurate because they are writing casually for their blog.
I will say that beginners who post tutorials are filling a need in the market. Good for them for jumping in with both feet and encouraging others to join them!
I am so glad to hear that there are those out there that are looking for harder projects. I’ve been toying with the idea of starting a blog about more advanced patternmaking and sewing techniques. I’m not an expert, just a patternmaker who works in the industry and has seen a lot. I find it hard to believe that there are only beginners out there. Because it is a niche crowd looking for such information, the web seems like the best place to put it.
I’m looking for some inspiration to get the ball rolling. I’ve realized that the stuff I do everyday is same old to me, but it could be helpful to others that don’t know. At the risk of sounding like a shameless plug, let me know via FB what you’d like to discuss. You can find my page “Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Patterns”.
Here is my two cents I have been sewing for over twenty years I have MANY books on the subject in fact two many and loads of videos. Once you learn the basics it is up to the person to practice and improve upon their skill level. The books and videos just give one person’s opinion on how to change things because if you notice each professional does things a little different this is why most books give you the foundation to work with . Also when commenting I thought it was not polite to give criticize even if it is constructive most of the bloggers tell you not to correct things so this is why it is not done.
I’ve also got the basics down as you do, and I think similarly to you about practice. I’m always on the lookout for new, innovative ways to tackle older techniques; new and republished resources for “lost” techniques; looks to the future, and new looks at the past. I’m also very interested in topics that are not well-published, such as functional outdoorwear.
I’m also not sure of the acceptance of constructive criticism by bloggers. I avoid giving it because I don’t want to discourage people from sharing. But that is only one way to look at it.
I teach sewing to kids and adults in my studio. The children I teach already make some advanced things. They all know how to ruffle, applique, rhinestone transfer and do some basic pattern making. It is amazing when you just let them go for it what they come up with. I like instructional books from Fashiondex and there is a lot of Japanese pattern books that are great with some very fancy draping. If you already understand draping that is since I would assume most of us do not speak Japanese!
One other thought that is sad to say as it is – books are becoming obsolete in this digital world. I loathe a downloaded pattern – or an unprofessionally drafted pattern made with a sharpie. Do they not know there are curved rulers??? Drives me crazy. Commercial patterns all need to be altered anyway. You really need to spend the time learning the fit and finding some fantastic luxury textiles and how to work with them. For me that’s the ultimate. We are so lucky it’s easy to source everything on the web!
I’ll stay tuned for any great books y’all find.
Another idea for a book. Rene Bergh wrote a book on classic clothes to make. I liked it, such as it is, but there were a lot of things I did not find in that book, both technique-wise and otherwise. The concept was very good, though and could do with a re-visit. I would love a book with an in-depth chapter on a number of classic clothes. Each chapter would have a corresponding pattern and lots of excellent construction how-tos (good RTW “investment” quality) as well as information on how to change it up with different details, fabrics, embellishment and acessories and such based on your style persona. I can see chapters on classic clothes for office, parties, weekends, outdoors, bedroom(!) and so on. It could be published as a series of booklets or ebooks, though I’d loove a huge big spiral bound quality book with an excellent index for finding things.
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I don’t often have time to check in on the postings here but I feel the same as the others. I’ll be celebrating my 40th birthday in a little over a week and I’ve been sewing since I can remember. I, too, am looking forward to Gertie’s book, but it’s true that most books contain simple projects that are geared toward the beginning sewer.I don’t pretend to know everything but I want more than that – I want to be challenged! And I’m not interested in the books written by the designers of quilting cottons whose fans salivate over every new fabric collection like it’s a collection at Bryant Park. I think my next purchases may have to be the Pattern Magic books.
Yes. I’m over 40 now and have been sewing for a few years – I started off with some beginners type books, but I’m so ready to move on now – there is definitely an untapped growth market. When I go to the bookstore there is NOTHING between “this is a needle, this is running stitch, here are some dowdy patterns without shaping which will suit you if you’re a stick insect in your twenties” and high couture coffee table books. I seek out all my sewing inspiration from sewing blogs and sewing pattern review. I would pay good money for many of the book ideas pitched above!!! I would like to move my sewing skills on to the next level and like many of us I don’t want pastel, flowery sundresses, I have curves and I need advanced techniques. Bring it, publishers! Plus – not all of us sewists are into vintage – One of my favourite books is “Supermodern Wardrobe” http://www.amazon.co.uk/Supermodern-Wardrobe-Andrew-Bolton/dp/1851773436 and I would be very excited to see a book of sewing techniques/tutorials on elements drawn from such ideas.
Thank you for such a good post. I’m really new to sewing clothes for myself (2 years) and at first, all I wanted to do was make things quickly, no matter how badly. But I’ve just turned 31 now, and I am really interested in making things that will last and more advanced stuff. I buy alot of books, but I usually get disappointed after reading them. I would rather pay good money to get a decent book ( I just bought Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers) that I know will teach me to think for myself, rather than one that gives me commercial patterns. I think the best thing would be for me to learn how to draft my own patterns, this makes you more creative, and pushes you to learn more.