I got several hours to myself today. My accountant needed my computer, so I couldn’t go online. I took the opportunity to work some more on the jacket. What a treat! As I said yesterday, now that the major construction parts are done, it’s down to the details. And the details always take the most time. The next major step is setting the sleeves. Before I do that I wanted to sew the sleeve’s lining seam allowances together. I used a slipstitch to do this.

For those who are wondering, my nail polish is "Swimsuit, I Win!" from OPI
That is a slipstitch, right? Or is it a fell stitch? See, this is the reason I hesitate to write a book. I’m afraid I’d get it wrong and people would jump all over me.
Here’s a picture of the finished seam:

All done, whatever you call it.
I did have time to set the right sleeve before I had to tend to family matters and dinner. I basted it in by hand first, then I machine stitched. It’s not trimmed or given a final press yet, but this picture gives you an idea of how it will look.

It's a 3-piece sleeve
So that’s where it stands. Can I just tell you? This fabric is an absolute joy to work with. I love the feel of it between my fingers. It’s so soft, and so luxurious. Have you ever worked with a fabric like that? What did you make? Share, please!
Happy sewing!
I love sewing with fine fabrics….they just go together so beautifully, it’s almost like sewing was made only for fine fabrics….when you use something less than that, it’s such a struggle – maybe cause that you’ve seen what the really great stuff is like to sew with. I just wish silk wasn’t so hard on my rotary and regular scissors.
I’m planning to make a Chanel-style jacket (or 2 or 3?) this year so I’m following this with interest. Please keep the detailed posts coming!
That is really coming along. It will be gorgeous. Both the the fashion fabric and the lining are scrumptious. That is a slip stitch.
(Hey, that’s what reviewers are for!)
So, you have me sooo curious. How soon will we hear about this secret project by a secret sewing goddess?
It is so beautiful! And it looks so good the way the pattern lines up at the seams.
I sewed with silk jersey today and it was pure pleasure!
sigh. I would love to stick with silk jersey and never sew another ITY.
That won’t happen.
When I think about how much work it must be to write a book, or start a pattern line like Sewaholic, I am impressed at the effort expended (Gretchen & Sarai, for a new examples). Nevertheless, I do hope more authors will step up and write for us! I was so pleased to see all the comments & great ideas on your post about the need for advanced sewing books.
It’s really lovely! Will you be able to finish the insides of the armscyes the way you have just shown us that your finished the arm seam, or is it a different technique because of the curve?
I’ll use the same finishing technique, Karin. It works even on the curve of the armscye.
The jacket is looking good. I had some oxford cloth from Joann Fabrics of all places. At least it was wonderful until I bollixed (sp?) it up with crappy iron-on interfacing. I have a few more in the stash that I think will be great, but I’ve resolved to get some fitting issues worked out before using them. And I *did* get some good interfacing from Pam.
It looks really good, whatever it is. With a slipstitch, you see a “v” pattern of slanted stitches if you separate the layers of fabric. The needle pick for the next stitch is a little ahead of the last created stitch. A fell stitch creates a series of vertical stitches. The needle is inserted on the diagonal directly behind the previously formed stitch.
At least that’s what I recall.
Ann, the jacket looks so wonderful. I really like the look of the lining, thanks for posting pics of the hand stitches. It helps to see how it’s done, very encouraging for when I put in a jacket lining. (I usually do it by machine :-/ )
The last thing I made out of a really sumptuous fabric was a Michael Kors jacket, the fabric is a beige cashmere (Ahma beige girl!) ;
It’s still coming along beautifully. I can’t wait to see it finished. I vote for slipstitch
I kept looking at this fabric from another post of yours and kept thinking how touchable it looked. Such a beautiful houndstooth. (And I love the lipstick red lining.) I think I love sewing because it’s so tactile and soothing… so far my favorite was a silk tweed-type fabric. Yum!
My goodness, Ann! The jacket is beautiful. I’ve been missing out of the process, but will read on. A channel jacket is on my to make list. Of course, I’m bookmarking these posts. They will help me when I make my first jacket. Thank you for always sharing. Please do write a book. You are so gifted and an excellent teacher.
C
Ann, could you comment on your quilting? Looks like a “pattern” rather than the usual straight quilting.
Thanks,
Cissie
Thanks for the info. I am making a faux Chanel jacket right now for the first time (suddenly my step daughter is getting married, and I have nothing to wear). When it comes to the patch pockets, are they to be quilted?
I wouldn’t bother to quilt them, because the pockets are rather short, so you’d only have about inch-long stitching lines. I would line them normally. HTH!