On Pins and Needles

Klasse is a new brand to me. I'll report back.

Well, just needles, actually. No pins today.

I often am asked, “How often should I change my needle?” My general rule of thumb is after every project. There are exceptions, of course. If I’m just making something very small, then I don’t bother to change it. Conversely, if I am sewing with a particularly difficult fabric, I may change it in the middle of the project. Here are a few guidelines that I use.

Change your needle when:

  • You’ve completed an ‘average size’ project. This could be any garment.
  • You’ve logged 6-8 hours of sewing time on the same needle.
  • You change weights of fabrics. Silk chiffon requires a different needle than silk faille, for example.
  • You notice any pulling of fabric threads when you sew.
  • You run over something and you hear your needle go “clunk”.
  • You hit a pin or other object.
  • You feel a burr if you run your finger down the needle’s tip.
  • You’re not sure when you last changed your needle.

I err on the side of “less time on the needle means less time dealing with problems.” I have had students tell me that they never change needles unless their needle breaks. They get a stern lecture from me, I can tell you. A bad needle can ruin a sewing project. A needle, even an expensive needle made from titanium, is such a teeny part of your garment’s cost, why chance it?  I like to take the L’Oreal approach. I’m worth it, and my sewing is worth it. So with every new project, start with a new needle. You’ll be glad you did!

Happy sewing!

About Gorgeous Fabrics

I own an online fabric store, www.GorgeousFabrics.com. The name says it all!
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25 Responses to On Pins and Needles

  1. Thank you for reminding me — I need to pick up a new pack of quilting needles this afternoon, just put the last one in my machine yesterday! And please do report back on the Klasse needles — I’ve never heard of them; I only use Schmetz for construction and Organ needles for embroidery.

  2. Jean S says:

    I’ve turned into a maniac about this! I even keep track of how much time is “left” on a needle–for instance, if I sew a cotton project and it takes only 3 hours, I’ll plug that needle into my pincushion with a little post-it note attached noting that I have 3-5 hours left.

    Crazy, I know, but I figure it’s a counterbalance to all the years I didn’t change needles….

  3. NancyDaQ says:

    I have tried Klasse and don’t like them as much asSchmetz or Bernina. I’d add one other point–change the needle if it starts making a slight “thunk” sound when it stitches through the fabric. This indicates resistance from the fabric, meaning the needle is dull. The sound is kind of hard to describe. :)

    • fourkid says:

      Ooohhhh, is that what that sound means! (I’m not being cheeky, I really didn’t know.)
      Blessings,
      Patti

  4. ReadyThreadSew says:

    I’m the same as NancyDaQ above, I only change my needle when I can hear it needs changing. It seems a ridiculous waste of resources and money to change a needle just because it’s been sewn with for an arbitrary amount of time. I also wonder how one could possibly work out that arbitrary amount of time – ten minutes sewing on my hand-crank produces far few stitches than on my modern machine – and ten minutes on an industrial machine would produce far more stitches than my home machine. I sewed a simple dress the other day and of the four hours or so it took me to complete I probably spent less than half an hour with my machine running. I don’t get why using a needle for a long time should cause problems – it only takes about a dozen stitches for me to notice that a needle needs changing.

    I am only guessing – but it wouldn’t surprise me at all if the idea of changing a needle after sewing each garment wasn’t started by Singer just so that they could sell more needles.

    I’ve been sewing for around six years and I probably average two garments per month. I know that I have thrown awayer few than a dozen needles, and at least four of those have been because I’ve hit a pin and snapped the needle.

    • Gorgeous Things says:

      Well, ReadyThreadSew, that’s your opinion and you’re entitled to it. I would never say that you are wasting your time sewing with a bad needle. That would be rather rude, don’t you think? But what do I know? I’ve only been sewing for 39 years, so I’m a relative newbie, I guess. ;)

      BTW, I didn’t read Nancy’s comment as she “only” changes the needle when it goes thunk. Rather, I interpreted it that she takes that as an another sign that the needle needs changing. Nancy, if you see this post, would you please let us know if that’s correct? Thanks!

  5. Karen says:

    I totally agree with you, Ann, on changing needles with every garment sewn and preach this to others. Thanks for the post!

  6. BeckyMc says:

    Thank you for the reminder!

  7. Phyllis says:

    Needles cost almost nothing, they are cheap insurance

    • Karla says:

      I was just about to type “cheap insurance” when I noticed that Phyllis had beaten me to it. Instead, I’ll just say “ditto.” One little note…or confession. I change Schmetz Microtex needles less often than others. I must have been comatose for some time period and when I regained consciousness, I realized that I had used the same microtex needle for 3 or 4 projects and it was still pristine. Now, I use them for practically everything, because they stand up to my abuse so well.

  8. Casey says:

    When I started seriously sewing as a teenager (rather than just dabbling occasionally as before), I never thought about changing needles. Needless to say, I think this was part of the problem I was occasionally discouraged with how my projects were stitching up. Now, I try to keep a few packs of spares of the sort I use most often, and change them often. Can’t say I get as frustrated at how stitching goes now…

    I bought a pack of Klasse needles earlier this year (ball point), and found them quite nice. At least on my older Singer and Kenmore. I liked them more than the Schmetz ball points. But that may just be personal opinion. :)

  9. Patti says:

    Thanks, Ann–I also am a ‘change the needle often’ person. I also toss pins that are bent or dull. I also change the blade in my rotary cutter, have my good scissors sharpened, and buy good quality thread. Why make things harder–or risk damage to good fabric (and I don’t buy garbage fabric either!).

  10. Kay Y says:

    You are quite right Ann, this is a good practice. I don’t change needles as often as I should. Hangs head in shame. I know that kerthunk sound of a dull needle. If you hear it, it’s far gone!

  11. theresa in tucson says:

    I’m not overly rigorous about changing needles but like Nancy, if the needle goes softly “thunk, thunk, thunk”, even if I just changed it, I change it, and definitely if there’s been any kind of pull that may have distorted the needle. Ditto for skipped or dropped stitches, puckers or where the machine is just not “normal”. Most of the problems that crop up can be solved by cleaning, rethreading or a needle change.

  12. Faye Lewis says:

    Great needle advice Gorgeous!

  13. Corinne says:

    I am a needle changer because history has proven that to be the best case scenario for me. Like you, I have been sewing for a very long time. (+50 years) I have used the Klasse needles and found them to be just fine but I did have problems with the quilting weight needle. That could have been caused by any number of things, but when I changed back to the Schmentz, no problems.

    Anyway, a little story. I was attending a class presented by a factory rep for one of the Big sewing machine companies. The lady sitting next to me was aghast when the rep recommended changing the needle between projects or when the fabric dictates a different needle. She remarked that She had sewn on her faithful Kenmore machine for more than 20 years and never had to change the needle!!! Really!!! However, she did admit to a skipped stitch now and then.

  14. Gilraen says:

    I never used to change my needles when I started sewing. Then I learned on line how important it was and did not believe it. At the same time I was kinda curious and decided to try it.
    Guess what? Everybody that says change needles on a regular basis is right. Yes I have become more skilled over the years, but changing needles has helped with the improvement as it saves on the unpicking, the not quite right stitching and general annoyance.
    I may not always be as diligent as you are, but getting closer to that mark

  15. renee says:

    What about on your serger? How often do you change needles? I’ve found needles make a huge difference in the knits my serger wants to sew.

    • Gorgeous Things says:

      Me too, Renee. I change serger needles with the same frequency – after each major garment project. Or 6-8 hours of sewing time (that would be 270,000 to 360,000 stitches for those who track it that way ;) )

  16. Colleen P. says:

    I too change the needle often, though I must shamefully admit to not changing my serger needles as often as I should. The sewing machine though-that one gets changed every garment. I buy Schmetz when Jo-Ann or Hancock puts them on sale, so the cost per needle is around 50 cents, give or take, depending on needle type, etc. I don’t think that’s an unreasonable cost. Certainly it’s less costly than even the cheapest fabric if it needs to be replaced because of worn needles.

  17. sewsy says:

    Ann, my heart leapt when I saw the pictures of the Klasse needles! There aren’t too many things I swear by, but Klasse needles are among the few. I know that with most things in life, one sewists’ trash is anothers’ treasure; but I really love working with Klasse needles. I have to drive aways to get them now, but it’s worth the effort.

    I change needles after every project or two, depending on how long a project session lasts. If it was a quick sew, I’ll keep it in until the next one is done. If it was a rather longish one, I’ll change it either midstream, or right after.

    Thanks for posting the pictures. Not everyone knows about or likes Klasse needles. I think they’re wonderful. :-)

  18. fourkid says:

    Just as you taught me all about proper pressing, now you have a great lesson on needles. I knew I should change my needles more often than I do, but this is a great summary of the why’s and wherefore’s.
    Thank you,
    Patti

  19. JustGail says:

    I don’t always change as often as I should. However, I do make sure to put in a new one if I’m using an expensive or delicate fabric, as I have yet to find the tutorial on how to undo the snags or pulls caused by a dull or bad needle. Yes, that was learned by bitter experience.

  20. Pingback: Stitching Spotlights 6.1.2012 » A Fashionable Stitch

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