Subtitle: Paco Peralta – Patterns for the Sophisticated Woman
Pattern Description: From Paco’s Etsy store: Sleeveless blouse with draped front; it can be made of silk or similar fabrics, including stretch fabrics (knits). The pattern is simple and easy to sew. it consists of four pieces: lower front, upper draped front, back and back neckline facing. The armholes are finished with bias strips of self-fabric (pattern not included) or using a special purpose hemming technique for stretchy fabrics (if using knits). The pattern is drafted in three alternating sizes: Small, Medium, Large and X-Large (Bust 31,5, 34,5 37,5, and 40,5 inch.). A smaller or larger size can easily be obtained using the pattern master lines for grading. The pattern is hand copied from the original and the designer labes is provided, granting this pattern with “exclusive model” status.
Sizing: S-XL. I mad a Medium.
Fabric Used: Wide Silk Jersey in Merlot, from Gorgeous Fabrics (of course). Alas, it is long since sold out.
Needle/Notions Used: Stretch 70/10 needle, Metrosene thread, Pro-Tricot interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply (the best interfacing out there, IMO)
Tips Used during Construction: Press that Bad Mamma Jamma, Sewing With Knits
Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes
How were the instructions? There aren’t any included, but this pattern goes together beautifully, so I didn’t need any. Also, Paco has lots of information on how to make this pattern Here On His Blog.
Construction Notes: I made two muslins of this top and determined the size I want (Medium). While the second muslin looks good on, it needed an FBA to really fit the way I wanted it to and eliminate the shelf effect at the bust. A couple of folks asked how I did that. Well – it’s kind of a cheat, forgive me Paco!
I simply adjusted the lines of the drape to give myself a little extra room. Here you can see the resulting pattern piece:
It’s not the most elegant solution, but it fits well and works for me. As an aside, I once took a class with Jim Blinn, a computer graphics god from Jet Propulsion Laboratory, and when some snot-nosed kid tried to lecture him on using a more elegant solution to a technical problem, he replied, “Oh, I don’t know. Brute force is a wonderful methodology.” All of us in the class applauded, and I adopted that mantra as a way of life.
Other than that, I changed the hemline, which is 2 inches in the original pattern, to a 1/2 inch narrow hem. I used facings to finish the armholes and I hand hemmed everything.
Likes/Dislikes: I love this pattern! It’s comfortable, flattering and beautifully drafted. Phyllis saw the size medium muslin on me last week, and she can vouch for how well the pattern is drafted.
Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? I am going to make it again and I highly recommend it! I love Paco’s patterns because they are made for women who want to look like grown women, not like little girls. I can’t wait to make more of them!
Conclusion: A great pattern that is going to become a staple in my wardrobe.
Front
Back
And here are pictures of it with The Pencil SkirtI made.
With the top tucked into the skirt
And untucked. I think this would look nice with a narrow belt.
Next up: Phyllis is coming up and we’re going to try to finish our dress form doubles.
Happy sewing!
Absolutely–well–gorgeous! I can’t wait to see a picture of you wearing this. It looks great on Shelly, but it has to be stunning on Ann!
Absolutely beautiful. I too have this pattern, but have not made it up yet, but I will get to it as soon as it is possible. I have a long to do list. This pattern sure is a winner.
So so pretty Ann. I’d love to see it on you (in person, of course)
Lovely! What would you do with a narrow shoulder issue? I just used an old shirt of mine to make a bodice, and when I tried it on, I, too, used the brute force method, and took shears to the sleeves/shoulders. It had the same dropped shoulders as the Paco pattern.
I have linebacker shoulders, Becky, so I can’t really help there, sorry! I have worn other cowl neck patterns (mostly Vogue) that have dropped off my shoulders. This one doesn’t, so I suspect the back neckline draft may have something to do with that.
Thanks. You look wonderful in it. Good color for you, too!
Very beautiful – rich colors, gorgeous print and versatile pieces. I bet you will get a lot of wear from both, and always feel well-dressed when wearing them.
Lovely top. It would be great to see what it looks like on you. I applaud the comment about patterns being made for women who want to look like grown women not like little girls!
Lovely top, Ann. It looks great with your new pencil skirt.
Truly elegant and sexy, at the same time. The skirt is a perfect counterpoint.
What everyone else has said, plus thank you for the afternoon giggle regarding “blunt force” solutions. You’ve lifted my day!
I love your version and review. I made mine a few months ago. I also recommend Paco’s unique jacket….
Beautiful!
I’m playing with this pattern now. I love it, too, but I’m having some fit issues, because I think I need more of an FBA than you do, Ann. I also have this irrepressible need to understand HOW the pattern gets altered to accommodate the FBA. After playing with my musline extensively, I believe the best way to add (or take away) for the bust size is the put the extra length and width into the V at the base of the draped front – thereby extending the point lower (giving length) and blending the angled seams back to the armhole (giving width). To me, this translates into rotating the addition of width and length from a side/waist dart position into the bottom of the draped upper front.
I’m off to make another muslin. I skipped making it in one unaltered size, hoping to jump right into a custom fit for my non-conformist body, and the cowl neck looks to be totally wrong for me. Can’t figure out whether it’s too big or too small, so I’m going to make one in each size to see where I wind up.
Janee
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