Pattern Description: Semi-fitted, unlined jacket has collar, left front extending into drape and stitched hems. A: purchased decorative hook/eye tape for closing. A and C: right front and right collar edges may be cut on selvage, wrong side of fabric shows on drape. B and C: purchased decorative zipper.
Sizing: 6-22. I made a 14
Fabric Used: Here’s the place where I deviated from the recommendation. The pattern says to use “Moderate Stretch Knits”. Me? I love a challenge, so I used a stretch wool double-faced crepe in cobalt blue/black. I saw a lonely bolt of 4 yards on my last buying trip and I just had to rescue it. If I can find any more, I will put it up on the site, promise.
Needle/Notions Used: 70/10 needle, Riri separating zipper (M6/silver) from Pacific Trimmings, Pro-Weft fusible interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply, Thread.
Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through?More or less, given the fact that I didn’t use a knit, and I used a double-faced wool.
How were the instructions? Good. This is a very easy pattern to sew together, and the directions are good if you need them. Given the fact that I used a double-sided fabric and made other changes, I really didn’t use them.
Construction Notes: I made a bunch of changes. First, I used a stretch woven instead of a knit. There is enough ease in this pattern that (if you are making a knit, go down at least one size) I was able to use the stretch woven with no ill effects. I didn’t even need to make a FBA. I did a couple of things, though, I left the hem down rather than turn it up. It’s short, and I just liked the length with the hem down. This fabric doesn’t ravel, but to keep it in place over the long term, I sewed a line of stitches a scant 3/16 inches from all the raw edges. You may not be able to see it in the pictures, but I spent a lot of time switching threads so the black thread was on the black side and the blue thread was on the blue side.
Because the left front hangs open, I finished the collar seam with a black bias binding. It’s hard to see, but it’s there. And I whipstitched the edges of the rest of the collar. Why? Because I hadn’t thought about the order of construction in advance and I realized after the fact that I should probably finish it.
I added lining to the sleeves, and left the body unlined. Wool crepe is grabby, so lining the sleeves makes it easy to wear. I used the sleeve pattern and hand stitched it at the armscye and the wrist.
Likes/Dislikes: Gigi, that bad girl, turned me on to this pattern, It’s very comfortable, and it goes together beautifully. I love the lines, and I love the “moto” feel to the jacket. The only dislike is that, as with every Vogue/Butterick/McCall pattern I’ve seen lately, the armscye is rather low, and the sleeves are really long.
Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? Yes and Yes! Check the length of the sleeve before you sew and make adjustments if you don’t have really long arms, but other than that, it’s a great pattern.
Conclusion: A great pattern! Here’s a picture of the full jacket, closed up:
And here it is opened:
I wore it tonight to a wine tasting and got tons of compliments on it. I wore it with the Kwik Sew turtleneck I made last month and black pants. What a great outfit!