Pattern Description: Dresses A, B have fitted, pleated bodice, front neckline finished with bias tape, back zipper, flared skirt and stitched hems. A: armholes finished with bias tape. B: three-quarter length sleeves and purchased belt.
Sizing: 6-22. I made a 14, then sized down (see below).
Fabric Used: Wool Jersey from Catherine Malandrino in Ink Blue (sold out, sorry) from Gorgeous Fabrics.
Needle/Notions Used: Stretch 70/10 Needle, Pro-Weft Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply, Thread.
Tips Used during Construction: Sewing With Knits, Press that Bad Mamma Jamma, Sew from Wide to Narrow.
Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes.
How were the instructions? Passable. See the Construction Notes section for details.
Construction Notes: I made a FBA, which I do standard in Vogue patterns. I did a lot of things differently than the instructions. Let me be blunt. Vogue’s instructions are stuck in the 1980s, in the days before sergers became commonplace and knits were easily available. They need to revamp their entire set of instructions to bring them into the 21st century. I mean, really Vogue? Stitch in a double seam? Set a sleeve into an armscye after stitching the side seams closed? Use bias tape to finish edges? Put a zipper in a jersey dress? Really??? Yeah, no. I ignored them. I didn’t bother to sew the pleats down the way they suggest – I let them open softly. I stabilized the shoulder seams with Pam’s fusible interfacing, then I sewed the shoulder seams. After that, I set the sleeve in flat. I attached the skirt pieces to the bodice, sewed the side seams all at once and sewed up the back seam. I used a self-fabric facing at the neckline. No zipper is necessary in this dress, at least not with any wool jersey (like I used here), ITY, or any jersey with 25% or more stretch, so I left that off. I hemmed the dress and tried it on and….
It was too big.
I have been on a bit of a diet recently, and I am down 5 lbs since September. So I need to drop down a size these days. But this dress runs big. Another gripe I have is that Vogue doesn’t print the finished bust/waist/hip measurements on this pattern. Now, shame on me for not flat pattern measuring, but would it kill them (they ARE a publishing company, after all) to put those measurements back?
On the plus side – This pattern is well drafted and goes together quite easily. If you have any experience, you can sew this up in an afternoon, from start to finish.
Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? I would recommend it with caveats. Make sure you check the size against your size. I probably won’t make it again, but I do like it, now that I have taken it in a size.
Conclusion: A pretty, feminine dress. I love this fabric, which is why I chose this pattern – it shows it off. Here’s a picture styled on Shelley:
Oh yes, and I put one of these fabulous new labels in!
I just got a big shipment in of these, and we’ll start shipping some with every order in the next few weeks! If you want more, I’ll be putting 5-packs up for sale on Gorgeous Fabrics, so keep an eye out!
Pretty dress, love the color. I could not agree more about the Vogue patterns and instructions. Seriously, how hard is it to print finished measurements?? {Congrats on the weight loss!}
Very elegant dress. Love the shoes too.
Very pretty, love the color! This is one pattern that I’ve made up, and love, but… I agree about the lack of printed measurements and unnecessary zipper. So silly. Love, love, love the labels! Great idea!
Beautiful dress, love the style and color.
A great dress in the end but how frustrating that they don’t have the finished measurements on the pattern! I think they should be on the back of the envelope to assist people to buy the correct size! BTW, I think I found the weight you lost…
I bought this pattern a while ago and many times now have taken it out of the packet and put it back again. I’m glad I waited because your comments cover all the areas I was concerned about. I will make one when the weather starts to cool down now that I’ve seen yours. The colour is lovely and I bet it looks great on you.
What a dress! I love the color
Your dress turned out beautifully, but you sum up why I stopped sewing with Big 4 patterns.
LOL. This pattern is the one that inspired my FB complaint about the lack of measurements on the envelope OR the pattern tissue. So give me a clue – how much design ease did you ultimately decide on? As for your remark “I probably won’t make it again”…..put that pattern away for a while, but be prepared to drag it out again. This is such an attractive, useful, simple design; I’m sure GF will have more fabric in the future that is suitable.
I pulled out an inch and a half in the waist and bust, Karla. I could probably go even more, but I’ll just belt it at the waist.
Look at this version with topstitched pleats…just in case you were serious about not using this pattern again: http://www.otterine.com/blog/blog3.php/dark-olive-ribbed-knit-dress
Beautiful work Karla, I like the look of your dress with the pleats stitched down.
I love Ann’s version, and Karla’s look with the pleats stitched in place. I would not have given this pattern a second look if I had not seen it made up — you are both artists!
I have never set a sleeve in flat and didn’t realize it until just now. I’ve got something new to figure out. Someone hold my hand, please!! I love this color, such a lovely dress.
Love your dress!
I’m not a complete newbie sewer, but I’m not terribly experienced either, so I have some questions about updating instructions for working with knits. I don’t have a serger, so should I still double seam as the Big 4 instruct? (Or should I/can I use the overedge stitch on my sewing machine?) What are the benefits of setting in a sleeve flat vs. after sides have been seamed?
I’ve made several Renfrew tops, which has you set the sleeves in flat, and I was surprised how easily they went together. But I follow directions religiously (probably because of my lack of sewing confidence), so if the instructions tell me to sew up the side seams first, I do. Is it easier to do flat?
It’s definitely easier in many cases to set the sleeve in flat, Meredith. And you can use an over edge stitch, but frankly, you can use a narrow zigzag stitch (see Sewing With Knits Video linked on the review) and not bother with stitching twice.
Thanks! Next time, maybe I’ll be a rebel and set them in flat even if the instructions don’t tell me to! Empowerment in sewing!
Ooooh! Love the dress and glad I have some of that fabric
Agree about the instructions. I nearly always sew the sleeves in flat . Why make it harder than it has to be?
As for the measurements, I always measure the pattern pieces and compare them. Have found they often don’t match up. And frankly, we should be able to expect more from Vogue.
I love the fabric color on your dress, and I love that your mannequin’s name is Shelley:)
How did you do an FBA without adding a side dart? I want to try it on a knit top pattern but not game enough yet. Haven’t sewn for years, but I now have more weight than when I was younger and bought tops are either too tight across bust or too big around shoulders and upper chest – I think it’s time to stat sewing again, but I hate it when things don’t fit! I definitely need to do the FBA. But I’m a big scaredy cat!