Handy Tip: Eliminating Bulk in Jeans Hems

Handy Tip: Eliminating Bulk in Jeans Hems

Jul 27, 2025Ann Steeves

I'm making a pair of jeans-style trousers out of our Classic Levi Denim - Medium Wash. This is a mid-to-heavyweight denim (423 GSM), and it is a delight to work with. But I've found that, when making narrow (5/8" double folded) jeans hems, the part of the hem where it crosses the side seam and inseam can be difficult for some machines to handle. There are tools out there to help with that ("Hump Jumper" and "Jean-a-ma-Jig" come to mind), but there is also an easy fix to eliminate that bulk before it becomes a problem.

I took a coat tailoring class with Kenneth D. King, in which he showed us a way to reduce bulk in intersecting seams. This method works equally well on jeans and other hems in bulky fabrics. Check it out...

1 - Mark and Press Your Hem

Don't double fold the hem yet. Just press it so you can see the crease.

2 - Trim Your Seam Allowance

Then, carefully trim your inseam and side seam allowances close to the stitching line (about 1/4 inch is good). Stop trimming right at the hemline crease:

Trimming the seam allowances with shears

 

Trimmed seam allowance
3 - Double Fold and Pin the Hem
 

You can already see that it's less bulky than if you left the seam allowance intact. Double folded hem, and you can see already that it has less bulk

Sew Your Hem

Sew your hem per usual. I bet you'll find you don't need any jigs to sew over the seams, and the final result gives you a lovely, bulk-free finish:
A bulk-free result!
Try this on your next pair of jeans. I think you'll be pleased with the results!

More articles