Silk Silhouette Selector
I adore silk. It's fun, though sometimes challenging, to sew, and heavenly to wear. One of the best things about silk is its versatility. Some silks float away from the body in sculptural cones; others pool at your feet in slinky silhouette. This guide compares the silks in our collection by the properties that matter most for making couture-worthy garments: drape, structure, sheen, pleat-holding, and best uses. Fabrics linked below are in stock as of publication date (October, 2026).
At a Glance: Silk Comparison Table
| Fabric | Drape | Structure / Body | Sheen | Holds Pleats? | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Silk Gazar | Stands away from body; falls in large sculptural cones | Stiff — highest structure of any silk in this collection | Subtle, semi-matte | Yes — crisp knife and box pleats | Ball gowns, portrait collars, sculptural skirts, couture eveningwear |
| Silk Dupioni | Moderate — holds shape but has gentle movement | Firm with characteristic slub texture | High, two-tone iridescence from cross-woven threads | Yes — structured pleats and tucks | Jackets, tailored dresses, skirts, formal shirts, formalwear |
| Silk Taffeta | Stands away from body; snappy, crisp hand with audible rustle | Firm — less body than gazar but more than dupioni | Smooth, high sheen; iridescent versions available | Yes — retains crisp pleats | Structured dresses, evening skirts, jackets, bridal |
| Silk Faille | Graceful flow with structured body | Medium-firm; subtle crosswise ribs give definition | Low-to-medium, elegant matte sheen | Yes — soft structured pleats | Dresses, jackets, skirts, pants, bridal |
| Silk Shantung / Noil | Moderate — more body than CDC, lighter than dupioni | Crisp with decorative slubs | Subtle, casual sheen | Somewhat — soft pleats | Tops, cigarette pants, evening jackets, relaxed dresses |
| Silk Organza / Organdy | Stands away from body; airy and translucent | Crisp and stiff; requires lining for most garments | Sheer with bright luminosity | Yes — very crisp pleats | Overlays, eveningwear, structured skirt layers |
| Silk Crepe de Chine (CDC) | Fluid with soft pebble texture; skims the body | Light-to-medium; elegant and easy to sew | Soft, low sheen; matte-ish | No — soft folds, not crisp pleats | Blouses, dresses, linings, eveningwear |
| Silk Charmeuse | Liquid — clings and flows; heaviest drape in this group | Soft; little structural memory | High — brilliant satin face; matte crepe reverse | No — soft cowl-like folds only | Bias gowns, lingerie-inspired dresses, blouses, linings |
| Silk Georgette | Floating, sheer, and airy | Lightweight; semi-sheer; requires underlining | Matte with slight transparency | No — drapes in soft cascades | Flowy blouses, skirts, overlays, scarves |
| Silk Chiffon | Breezy and delicate — lightest in the collection | Very lightweight; completely sheer | Soft luminosity | No — cascades only | Tops, skirts, and dresses (requires lining) |
Silk Gazar — Sculptural & Couture
Gazar is the architect's silk. Its double-woven structure means it stands completely away from the body, falling in the large, crisp cones that define couture ball gowns and portrait-collar blouses. Think Oscar de la Renta, Valentino, and vintage Balenciaga silhouettes. It holds knife pleats and box pleats without basting. Gazar is not a drapey silk — it is a sculptural one.
- OdlR Classic Silk Gazar — Black — $35/yd. The benchmark gazar: "organza meets a screen door." Full crisp hand; portrait collar, dramatic evening skirt.
- Singin' the Blues Silk Gazar — $29/yd. Rich cobalt/indigo colorway. Tops, dresses, skirts, couture formalwear.
- Calamo Silk Gazar — Navy — $29/yd. Deep navy with amazing body. Dresses, skirts, couture formalwear.
- Calamo Silk Gazar — Deep Magenta — $29/yd. Saturated jewel tone; same sculptural body.
- Abstract Floral Silk Gazar — Blues — $29/yd. Printed gazar for a statement skirt or overlay.
- Polka Dot Silk Gazar — Black on White — $29/yd. Graphic, punchy, and structured.
- Floral Silk Gazar — Reds, Greens, Corals on Black — $29/yd. Rich multi-floral for a gala-ready look.
- Oscar Jacquard Burnout Gazar — Ivory on Blush — $19.50/yd. Semi-sheer burnout gazar with woven floral pattern; dress, skirt, or gala coat.
Sewing notes: Use Microtex needles (size 60–70), French seams or serged flat-felled seams, and a roller or Teflon foot. Gazar frays easily. Finish raw edges to prevent fraying. Underlining with organza gives more structure. Line with silk habotai for comfort.
Silk Dupioni — Iridescent & Architectural
Dupioni is woven with slubbed threads that create a subtle, irregular texture and, in iridescent versions, a two-tone shimmer that shifts with movement and the light. It has genuine structure (it will hold a jacket lapel or a pleated waistband) but more ease than gazar. It is one of the easiest silks to sew cleanly.
- Iridescent Silk Dupioni — Sky at Dusk — $20/yd. Blue/white warp-weft iridescence; shirts, dresses, jackets, formalwear.
- Iridescent Silk Dupioni — Green Tourmaline — $20/yd. Green weft/black warp; deep jewel-tone shimmer.
- Iridescent Silk Dupioni — Rose Gold — $20/yd. Yellow warp/magenta weft; warm two-tone luster.
- Wide Silk Dupioni — Parisian Purple — $20/yd. Rich solid purple; crisp hand.
- Wide Silk Dupioni — Emerald — $20/yd. Vibrant jewel green with subtle slubs.
Sewing notes: Dupioni frays — overlock or Hong Kong-finish all seams. Press with a dry iron, a silk organza press cloth and, if needed, a spray bottle to spritz lightly on the press cloth. Avoid getting water on the fabric - it can leave marks. While dry cleaning is recommended, especially for structured garments, you can machine wash and dry dupioni. Be sure to pre-wash your yardage if you plan to do this. It will soften up significantly, and it will remove much of the shine, leaving a sensuous lustre. Use the gentle setting in your washer and dryer.
Silk Taffeta — Crisp & Classic
Taffeta is the silk of formal occasions: it rustles, it holds its shape, and it photographs beautifully. Less extreme in structure than gazar, it is the right choice when you want clear silhouette without full sculptural volume. Iridescent taffeta adds the two-tone shimmer of dupioni with a smoother surface.
- Wide Silk Taffeta — Black — $27.50/yd. Classic crisp hand; structured dresses, skirts, jackets.
- Classic Silk Taffeta — Bridal Ivory — $24/yd. Tagged bridal; bridal gowns, formal dresses, eveningwear.
- Iridescent Silk Taffeta — Seafoam — $24/yd. Greenish-aqua iridescence; occasion dresses, skirts, jackets.
Silk Faille — Understated Elegance
Faille sits between dupioni and CDC: more body than charmeuse, less crunch than taffeta. The crosswise ribs give it a quiet sophistication that reads as couture without announcing itself. It is the go-to for structured-but-not-stiff dresses, skirts, and jackets.
- 4-Ply Silk Faille — Black — $23/yd. Italian 4-ply with crosswise ribs and graceful flow; dresses, skirts, jackets, structured pants.
- 4-Ply Silk Faille — Rich Ivory — $20/yd. Tagged bridal; bridalwear, dresses, jackets.
- Lightweight Italian Silk Faille — Black — $24/yd. Crisp hand with fine ribs and light structure; dresses, tops, long-lasting skirts.
Silk Shantung & Noil — Textured & Relaxed
Shantung has the slubs of dupioni but a flatter, lighter weave — a more relaxed formality that works beautifully for daywear and lighter eveningwear. Silk noil (raw silk) is the most casual of the silks: matte, slightly nubby, and wonderfully forgiving to sew.
- Lightweight Silk Shantung — Black — $19.50/yd. Characteristic slubs; slight sheen; tops, dresses, evening jackets, cigarette pants.
- Leaf a Good Impression Silk Noil — Brown/Cream — $47.50 (1⅜ yd piece). Slubbed matte raw silk; soft skirts, casual jackets, relaxed dresses.
- Silk Herringbone Tweed — Foggy Gray — $20/yd. Raw silk suiting in herringbone weave; blazers, trousers, casual jackets.
Silk Organdy — Structured & Sheer
Organdy is the lightweight, open-weave cousin of organza: crisp, semi-transparent, and surprisingly structured for its weight. These silk-linen blends add a linen hand for even more body and a slight slub texture.
- Silk-Linen Organdy — Lime — $16/yd. Crisp structured body; tops, blouses, skirts, eveningwear.
- Silk-Linen Organdy — Pumpkin — $16/yd. Same crisp hand in warm autumnal orange.
Silk Crepe de Chine (CDC) — Fluid & Refined
CDC is the workhorse of the silk wardrobe. Its soft hand and matte sheen gives it more body than charmeuse but still excellent fluid movement. It is beginner-friendly, forgiving to cut on the bias, and elegant across a wide range of garment types.
- Abstract Print Wide Silk CDC — Multi on White — $26/yd. Blouses, dresses, skirts, eveningwear.
- Classic Silk CDC — Royal Purple — $29/yd. Vibrant saturated solid; blouses, dresses, skirts, eveningwear.
- NY Designer Silk CDC — American Beauty — $21/yd. Formal gowns, dresses, blouses.
- Wide Italian Stretch Silk CDC — Black — $22.50/yd. Elastane added for recovery; LBDs, eveningwear, linings.
- Stretch Silk CDC — Sapphire Blue — $18.50/yd. Slip dresses, bias skirts, soft blouses.
- Italian Stretch Silk CDC — Lilac Frost — $20/yd. Wide Italian; dresses, blouses, linings.
Silk Charmeuse — Liquid & Luminous
Charmeuse has the highest drape and the highest sheen in the silk family. It clings, flows, and catches light. The satin face is brilliant; the reverse is a soft matte crepe that can be used as a lining surface. Do not attempt crisp pleats — instead, let it cascade in cowls and soft bias folds.
- 4-Ply Stretch Silk Charmeuse — Black — $25/yd. Heavy, slinky, with stretch; LBDs, formalwear, couture linings.
- Silk Charmeuse — Tea Rose — $24.50/yd. Wide; reversible satin/crepe; blouses, dresses, eveningwear.
- Wide Silk Charmeuse — Imperial Purple — $24.50/yd. Fluid and shiny; dresses, eveningwear.
- Wide Silk Charmeuse — Purple Rose — $20.50/yd. Vibrant; formalwear, coat linings.
- NY Designer Silk Charmeuse — Soft Mint — $18/yd. Tagged bridal; blouses, dresses, bridal party.
- Wide Floral Stretch Silk Charmeuse — Blues/Greens — $27.50/yd. Printed; dresses, formalwear, linings.
- Poppy Profusion Silk Charmeuse — Reds/Green/Yellow on Black — $24/yd. Bold Italian floral; dresses, tops, formalwear.
Silk Georgette & Chiffon — Airy & Flowing
These are the sheerest silks in the collection — perfect for layering, overlays, and garments where floating movement is the point. Both require underlining or lining for most wearable garments.
- Wide Stretch Silk Georgette — Black — $19/yd. Semi-sheer; slight stretch; blouses, flowy skirts, formalwear.
- Anna Sui Panel Print Silk Georgette — Multi on Black — $59/yd. Stylized floral panel with double border; blouses, tops, scarves.
- Step on a Crack Ombré Silk Chiffon — Blues — $24.50/yd. Wide; abstract blue-to-white ombré; tops, skirts, dresses (requires lining).
Quick-Pick Guide: What's Your Silhouette?
| Silhouette Goal | Reach For |
|---|---|
| Ball gown or sculptural cone skirt | Silk Gazar |
| Structured evening dress with iridescence | Silk Dupioni or Silk Taffeta |
| Tailored jacket or pleated skirt | Silk Dupioni, Silk Faille, or Silk Taffeta |
| Fluid bias-cut gown | Silk Charmeuse or 4-Ply Crepe-Back Satin |
| Polished blouse or dress with easy movement | Silk Crepe de Chine |
| Romantic overlay or floaty blouse | Silk Georgette or Silk Chiffon |
| Casual or relaxed separates | Silk Noil, Silk Shantung, or Silk Herringbone Tweed |
| Structured sheer overlay | Silk Organdy or Silk-Linen Organdy |
All products linked above are active and in stock as of October, 2026. Product availability changes frequently — if an item is sold out, browse the full Silks collection for current inventory.
