Thoughts on (heavily modified) New Look 6586 Jacket

Oct 25, 2020Ann Steeves

Tags

Bespoke Construction Pressinatrix Techniques

Happy Sunday, and happy fall! So far here in Boston, the summer has extended its tentacles well into October, but last night the weather changed and now it's cold. Which is okay by me, since I've been on a coat kick for the last two months. When I visited my favorite wholesaler earlier this month, he presented me a gift of some stunning plaid mohair coating, saying, "Next time you come down, wear something you make with this." How sweet was that! So of course, I had to make something beautiful to wear when I go down again next week.

I dug through my pattern stash to see what coat patterns I have that would do justice to this Gorgeous Fabric. Unfortunately, I only had 2 1/2 yards, and the plaid is big, so I had to be thoughtful about placement and fabric usage. I came across New Look 6586, a coat, jacket and cape pattern that is, alas, out of print. It is available on Etsy and Ebay, however.

The Pattern/The Changes

The original pattern is for an unlined, princess seam, double breasted coat, jacket or cape, with cut-on sleeves, epaulettes, varying sleeve lengths, button closure, and back belt.

Given the paucity of fabric, double breasted anything is problematic. But where there's a will, there's a way. I started with view B, the jacket length. I converted it to a single-breasted style with a mandarin collar. I added a CF zip, and I lengthened the sleeves using the bias-cut bands from the coat, View A. TBH, the sleeves in view B are WAY too short - bracelet length. That just does not work in New England winters. I didn't bother with the sleeve tabs or the epaulettes. The resulting sleeve length was perfect, and I rather like the bias contrast in the plaid.

A Message From the Pressinatrix

Ah, my dearest minions, I hope you are wearing your (perfectly pressed, of course) masks, distancing in a most social manner, and remembering to wash your hands between pressings. Now, I must tell you about the most wonderful tool that my ~~lesser self~~ alter ego recently procured for my arsenal: a mohair velvet pressing cloth. This came from The Pressinatrix's dear friend, Kenneth D. King.

It appears these are sold out, but my ~~lesser self~~ has promised to see if she can find more yardage. One shall see. In the meantime, if you have the chance to use a needle board or a velvet press cloth to press your fabrics with nap, like this mohair, I encourage you most mightily to do exactly that. It will prevent "pressing to death" and will preserve your nap.

Also, when pressing seams open on a heavily napped fabric like this, hover your iron a micron above the fabric and steam heavily. Then use either your hand or a clapper with a very light touch, to press the seams gently without leaving impressions on the right side of the garment.

That is all.

Back to Construction

As I mentioned, the yardage was short for the needs of the pattern, even after adjusting for single-breasted. I had made a muslin, and once I got that right, I used the pieces as the pattern, and traced around them with tailor's chalk.

I cut the front facings and the inner collar from cashmere coating from my stash (yay, stash!). The pattern was unlined, and I wanted a lining, so I drafted one using the front and back side pieces, and the back, to which I added a 1-inch CB pleat for ease. I made the lining first, which (for me, anyway) prevents project fatigue.

Once the lining was done, the main garment went together readily. I tried to match the plaid across major horizontal seams. I didn't have enough fabric to match vertical (sleeve) seams.

I used a double open-ended Riri Zipper from Pacific Trimming.

This went together quite readily. Here are pictures on Shelley: