I've been awfully busy at work recently, and for that I thank all of you. Sewing is a solitary activity and we have all been doing more of it to relax and take our minds off the situation that surrounds us. As my son just said, "It's corona's world. We're just living in it." Tru dat, Steven.
Anyway, let's take some time away from the news cycle and talk about my latest project. - Simplicity 8056 Amazing Fit Trousers.
The pattern description reads: "Miss and Plus size Amazing Fit wide-leg pants in full length, cropped and to the knee shorts that feature fly front zip and separate pattern pieces for slim, average and curvy fit." I made a size 14 Average.
Let's Talk About Fit, Baybeeee...
When Simplicity says "curvy fit", they mean that the waist is significantly smaller than the hip (at least in the "misses" sizes). The "slim" and "average" fit have one back dart, and side curves of slightly differing depths. The "curvy" fit has two back darts. All three fitting styles are included in the envelope, and the pattern ranges in size from 10-18 and 20W-28W. I did a weekend Sit and Sew with Kenneth King last summer, during which he created a trouser draft for me, so I used that crotch curve to modify the pattern. Here's the pattern I used (on the left), and my pattern piece overlaid on the original (right).
The pattern also has lots of tips for fitting. I will say that, according to my measurements, and the recommended ease on the pattern, I would size down a little. I'm on the glide path to 60, so you don't want to see me flexing my butt in tight trousers (not that I would), but these give a little more room than I need. Baste all your seams, and I think you'll find you can take a skoosh out if you want, without causing your side seams to go all wonky. In a stretch cotton, I would go down to a 12, I think. Check them out on your body and see what you think.
Sewing It Up
I cut my fabric - (a FABULOUS) Deep Olive Cotton, and I used Androsia cotton that I bought in the Bahamas about 20 years ago for the pockets and the waistband facings.The pattern has a fly, and I have to say, the directions for installing it were great! I'll keep them on file for when I do fly closures that don't have great instructions.
I sewed all the seams on my Little Brother sewing machine, and finished the seams with the serger, and in places that had bulky seams, using a straight stitch and pinking the seam allowances.
The pockets are nice and deep.
But here's my slight beef with this pattern: there are no back pockets. I don't know about you, but I keep my cell phone in my back pocket. Yes, I could add pockets (welt, of course), but I was lazy and wanted to get them done. Next time for sure.
I also added belt carriers. I like wearing belts with my trousers these days.
The line drawings indicate that these are flares. The actual flare is less pronounced than the line drawings would make you think. It's more than straight, but not quite boot cut. Here are pictures of the finished product on Shelley.
And, (gasp!) on me this morning.
So overall, I really like these trousers. They go together quite well, and can work for lots of different fabrics. I'll definitely make them again.
Deep Stash Challenge!
I have a Deep Stash Challenge running on Instagram. Dig out that fabric or pattern that's been in your stash at least two years, and make something with it while you're social distancing. Check out the challenge on my Instagram account, and join in - you might win a Pantone 2013 Fashion+Home Color Deck!
I hope you are staying healthy and sane, and able to take some time for yourself in these crazy days. Be well, and keep on sewing!