A Hybrid Style Arc Ann-Riva Top

Well, it's getting cold here in Boston, and we are right now in the middle of a pretty big nor'easter. So I came home a little early before the winds picked up, and decided to make myself a top. I wanted a knit top, but one that is a little warmer for the oncoming winter.

The fabric I used is Abstract Print Lightweight Sweatshirt Jersey - Apricots/Gray, which is 1 - still available on Gorgeous Fabrics (as of 10/26/21) - woo hoo! 2 - it's slightly heavier than most jerseys, but not a heavy sweatshirting, so it will be great for under jackets or sweaters when the weather gets colder. 

I decided to Franken-pattern two Style Arc tops that I've made before, Riva Raglan T-Shirt and Ann Tee Top. I wanted the raglan sleeves of the Riva, but the more open neckline of the Ann. So using the Riva as the base, I changed the neckline at the sleeve and the front, leaving the back piece as drafted. I also used the neckband from the Ann Tee Top, and I changed it to a long sleeve. 


(the black fabric is for contrast so you can see the pattern pieces)

After that, the construction was straightforward. I ran the top up on my Juki Serger and Coverstitch, primarily.

I used a construction method that I learned from Gail Yellen (she teaches a class about it on Craftsy). First, use basting tape (in this case, Steam-a-Seam) to fix your sleeve hems.

Next, run the hems under the cover stitch. Once the sleeve hems are done, serge one side seam from garment hem to sleeve hem. Make sure you run off several inches of serger chain at the sleeve hem. Using an upholstery needle or similarly large-eyed needle, feed the tail back through the seam for about half an inch, and give it a snug tug (Gail's term, thank you Gail!). Here's the sleeve hem after doing this step.

Do NOT serge the other side yet.

Apply your basting tape to the hem of your garment and turn it up. Run the entire garment hem under the coverstitch, from one raw side seam to the other.

NOW you can serge the side seam. Run a several inch thread chain before you start. Begin stitching at the garment hem and end at the sleeve hem. Using a large eyed needle, thread the chains back in the seams at both ends and give a tug to snug them up.

Last but not least, run a cover stitch around the neckline (this keeps your neckband from rolling out).

I like this construction method because it is quick and gives a clean finish. It's not couture, but hey, this is a tee shirt. 😆 In all, it takes me about 2 hours to knock out a shirt like this, from start to finish. It's a nice lagniappe after a big couture project like my Susan Khalje jacket. 

Here are some pictures on Shelley. I'll try to get a picture on me (I'll put it on my Instagram) this week. 

And here's a shot of Mooshie "helping" me cut out the pattern. He loves to come in and lie down wherever I am working.

I hope you're staying well, and if you are in the Northeast, or Northern California, I hope you are weathering the storms. 

Happy sewing!